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NUMEROUS TRADITIONS SURROUND the Irish summer, before we know it we are talking about the Leaving Cert, the GAA Championship fixtures and the prospect of whether ‘this is the summer now’ or not. But among these, is one that is less discussed: pilgrimage.
Annually, thousands of Irish people go on some form of pilgrimage. While the plane loads venture to Lourdes or Rome and others walk lengths of the Camino de Santiago, there are even more people who travel to pilgrimage sites across Ireland every summer.
Over 12,000 people climb Croagh Patrick on Reek Sunday, approximately 15,000 people go to St Patrick’s Purgatory, Lough Derg and the Novena in Knock can attract several thousand pilgrims each day. Also, it is not just the elderly that you will find at these places, people of all ages and backgrounds are involved. It seems pilgrimage still has an important role in Irish society.
Despite a noted decline in general religious practice in recent years, why are pilgrimages still occurring on these scales? What is their continuing appeal? A visit to different pilgrimage sites provides some of the answers.
St Patrick’s Purgatory, or Lough Derg, in Donegal is considered to be one of the most challenging, but also rewarding, pilgrimages in the Christian world. Pilgrims spend three days on a small island going barefoot, practising centuries-old prayer patterns, keeping a 24-hour vigil and fasting by eating only one meal a day – of black tea/coffee, with dry bread/toast and oatcakes. Despite the seemingly harsh conditions, the pilgrimage actually presents a rare opportunity for people to withdraw from the world, taking a break from everyday life and reflecting on the things that matter most to them. In this regard, Lough Derg seems to speak to a deep-seated human desire for retreat and contemplation, which has fuelled people to go on pilgrimage for millennia across all major cultures.
The call of pilgrimage is similarly found in holy wells spread all across Ireland, which are the sites of local journeys and worship. They are usually associated with local Celtic patron saints, although some have pre-Christian origins. Today, the wells are the location of diverse practices, showing the importance of the religious-spiritual in many people’s lives. Annual Pattern Days and masses are organised at wells, but so are Neo-Pagan and alternative spirituality events.
Also, streams of visitors travel for very intimate reasons, leaving memorial cards and small votive offerings (anything from coins and shells, to family photos and toys) at these shrines. The wells are important places of religious-spiritual activity, showing how pilgrimage, a looser form of devotion, can accommodate different perspectives. The weekly mass-goer and interested agnostic can walk alongside the person who privately explores their spirituality.
A large variety of people are found on Croagh Patrick too, especially on Reek Sunday, the last Sunday in July. From before dawn, crowds from all over Ireland and beyond climb the ‘holy mountain’. Rosary beads and staves mix with county jerseys and tin-foiled wrapped sandwiches, as families and groups ascend ‘the Reek’, with a few traditionalists doing it barefoot. Some get mass and confession on the summit, while others just take in the views of Clew Bay (on the clear days).
Afterwards, the stalls and chipper vans, as well as the local pubs, await the weary. Central to Reek Sunday is tradition. It, like many other pilgrimages, is based on family, community and national traditions. People bring their children or they climb because their grandparents always did it. Also, larger heritages are at work, as the Croagh Patrick custom stretches back to the pre-Christian era, with late July being the Celtic thanksgiving feast of Lughnasadh. The pilgrimage tradition seems to still resonate today on the Reek.
While traditions, religious-spiritual beliefs and the appeal of being a pilgrim are among the main reasons for the continuation of pilgrimage, it is also true that the motivations are probably as diverse as the people involved. Although I cannot untangle all of these threads, I can say with certainty that this summer thousands of Irish people will get on buses, put on walking boots or take off their shoes as they go on pilgrimage.
Richard Scriven is a PhD candidate in the Department of Geography, UCC and an Irish Research Council Government of Ireland Postgraduate Scholar. His research explores pilgrimage in Ireland. For more about Richard’s work or to contact him go to his website http://liminalentwinings.com/ or follow him on Twitter @CorkGeog
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Many people do it because they find it spiritually rewarding. It’s a pity so many people mix spirituality with religion, or mix religion with “God”. God is a word, it brings different meaning to everyone, yet people speak as if it meant the same to everyone. Religions were supposed to give a guiding path toward “God”. However, power, greed & ego through the years have left us with rituals & ceremonies that are plain stupid as they have lost all their real meaning.
On a personal level The word god means the spirit of life to me. The connectedness I feel with other humans, birds in the sky or a bush in the garden. To me it is as real as the air that we breath because I can sense it but can’t see it. I believe science regarding how the universe works and came into being & that does not conflict with me. I don’t believe in some fella with a beard but I don’t feel any need to ridicule people who do (or don’t).
I think pilgrimages are a reflection of people searching, trying to make sense out of their life or getting in touch with that inner peace, away from the hectic modern rat race.
Personal opinion finished :)
You don’t have to believe in fairy tales to experience spirituality. It can be found in the awe and wonder of the universe as it actually is. It’s not just for the ignorant.
The non religious wouldn’t consider it a pilgrimage, it would simply be a day out for the family. My hill walker friends love climbing Croagh Patrick and none of them are in any way religious.
Ahhh but do they do it bare foot though?
I’ve climbed Croagh patrick several time because it’s a challenging walk and the scenery is amazing. I intend climbing brandon in Kerry, later this year and the Camino is on the bucket list but none of these things will be done for religious reasons.
Jonathan, Likely not.
But on the plus side they are alot less likely to waste important emergency services resources as they are more experienced in what they are doing then a person trying to walk in their bare feet a few times in their lifetime.
It strikes me that a lot of folk who make overt displays of how pious & religious they are are often the most judgemental, nasty and narrow minded (a lot, not all, before somebody takes offence). It’s like they feel because they’ve “made the effort” it gives them a licence to do whatever else they want.
If they actually read the book they profess to follow, they would learn it’s about the “doing” day-to-day and how you live your life, not just public displays of faith.
Why do people go to church and pilgrimages? Because they’ve been brain washed by the Roman Catholic cult… Sorry “church”
I’ve been on several (not in the last 15 years) and I really loved them. My children don’t believe in God so I don’t go now but I will again. I find them very peaceful and relaxing. One of the last times I went happened to coincide with the death of a loved one and it brought me tremendous peace. They’re not for everyone obviously but they are a great source of comfort to those who need it.
Brian.. You are every bit as “brainwashed” by the current trend to bash Catholics.. Yaaaaaaawwwwnnnn
Current trend? Just because in the last 20 years the truth of church sponsored rape,imprisonment, forced labour, forced adoption, neglect, etc over seen and sanctioned by the Catholic Church is coming to light, doesn’t mean it’s a “trend”
And personally I’ve always been critical of the organised religions in this country
Brian I am not a fan of any organised religion either. To keep things balanced though “rape,imprisonment, forced labour, forced adoption, neglect, etc” also went on in many many homes around the country, it just isn’t spoke about as openly as what went on in the church
It may have happened in homes also, but that’s in no small part to the conservative state of mind that was taught by the church and promoted by the state.
Thankfully our society is moving from there. There was and no doubt still is evil pedophile people in the church. There are however (at least in my community) good people also involved in the church who spend a lot of their time visiting the elderly, hospitals etc. They are good people whether you agree with their religion or not
But would these people being doing these good deeds with out the influence of religion? If the bible didn’t tell them to do good for their fellow man would they?
Why not teach people in school that it’s good to interact with your community and help people who might need it. Instead of teaching children that a book tells them to otherwise they will not go to heaven.
You’d have to ask them Brian but I’m guessing they are doing it because they want to.
What I’m basing my guess on is they seem happy doing it and thankfully any that I know are not of the fire and brimstone nature you are referring to.
Pilgrimages are to the church what does big rallies in Germany were to the Nazi crowd.
Frightening the amount of red thumbs on most accurate posts on this story.
A pilgrimage is a personal Journey in a peaceful setting. It takes weird logic to tie that to a Nazi rally
Well there are pilgrimages and pilgrimages. Lough Derg looks nothing like a party rally. St Peters Square or the Haj, rather more so.
Well Tom Kenny when can we expect a pilgrimage to the Catholic slaughter house in Tuam ?
Shane why are you asking me ?
Because Irish schools are more interested in indoctrination than critical thinking.
I feel we don’t make enough of religious tourism. When Bosnia in the middle of a war is attracting more people than Knock for a setup that even the Vatican says is fake, we’re doing it wrong.
Since the Greeks seem to embarassed to build a Revelation Theme Park on Patmos, we could do it in Meath. Some psychotropic mushrooms, black clothed horsemen and a fog machine … the yanks would love it.
Miss elephant you say that “Even the Vatican says it,s fake” but don,t you realise yet along with all those puppets that go to church and these events that the church is the biggest fake of all ,it,s the 21st century people wake up there is no man in the sky anyone who believes this is a fool!
You call me a fool with what proof
You talk to an imaginary friend Mark, that’s proof enough, you’re an adult I assume?
You got proof my friend isn’t real . Or are you just spouting hate ?
I can’t tell you there is a panda in my bathroom and then ask you to prove the panda is in the bathroom, the burden of proof is on the person making the claim, not the other way around. Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence, and you have none.
You claim he is imaginary you prove it . I have experienced several deeply spiritual events in my life it worked for me why should I believe what you are saying . I have a very open mind but my evidence is untangable I can’t prove it but you can’t disprove either .now if you want to take pop at the human institution of the church I will join you it is a sick and twisted beyond what Christ thought us . But that is human institutions for you flawed . My problem is the attacking of someone who doesn’t believe as you do and calling them fools for it . It is closed mind
If the religious piece could be stripped out, there is nothing better for our downtrodden souls, struggling in the new economy, than a few good hours clambering up to a wild mountain top, getting away from the tedium of modern life and enjoying being alive and, hopefully, being relatively healthy.
It just stinks of religious people wanting to do something ‘good’ without actually doing anything at all. Be more like your christ…give to charity, volunteer, help the needy. Don’t walk up a hill and think it makes you a good person.
In fairness to Christians though, they give us a good laugh. I mean, any one who believes that there’s a man in they sky who is everywhere at once, created the earth and universe in 7 days, and then put 2 humans on on the earth to begin populating it deserves to be giggled at.
Then he sent and angel to impregnate a woman with out having sex with her, with his son. Who could do magic. And couldn’t be killed, but he still went to heaven when he was killed, but no one else can go to heaven unless they’re really dead. And people laugh at scientologists for their “crazy beliefs”
You’re all a gas bunch of lads, keep it up, it gives us more educated and open minded folk a good chuckle!
He also allowed Satan enter the mind of a man…. Who currently resides in the White House.
It seems Frank took his meds a bit late this morning.
I knew a young teenage boy who died of cancer. He believed he was going to heaven. I did not find it funny.
I really hope you are an American Frank.. Stupidity at that level only exists on that side of the atlantic. Please don’t tell me it’s made its way to our shores.
Brian Sweeney I doubt you’re even Irish.Every Irish person has friends and family who are practicing Catholics.
In fairness Brian maybe you should actually study what the Catholic Church says about the “creation account”, you just might be surprised.. not just what you heard as a child or see written on sites like this.
Because they are mad, sure ya have to be mad to believe that a god is floating around in the clouds, or all around us. We become self aware, couldn’t face the fact of death so we made up fairy tails about after lifes. If someone has an imagery friend we would be worried about their mental health, but if it’s god it is ok????
Because they can.
Roman Catholic pilgrimages are of the Devil….there is not one mention of them nor their locations in the Bible…. Even if there was our lord detest them with all the statues, graven images and money changers.
Frank, it is all spelled out for you in the Sacred Cabalababba of the Cryptomonicon. If you need more background–really deep background on this, may I suggest these folks:
People of other religions than R.C.’s walk the reek each year.
No Theologian this.
Why was Mecca left off the list ? The Hajj can be great craic even it gets out of hand at times.
Ha ha. Silly religionists. Climbing mountains barefoot and crawling around on their hands and knees repeating mindless mumbo-jumbo. Signs of a feeble mind if you ask me. Sure everyone loves a good hill walk but I don’t get this whole “pilgrimage” deal. It’s not the middle ages anymore people. You won’t get burnt at the stake if you don’t do what the church says. Why do individuals go along with others’ make-believe reality? They should invent their own make-believe reality, if that’s what they’re into
God knows
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