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Did you ever climb 121 steps up through Irish history? You should

St Canice’s Cathedral – and its fantastically-preserved round tower – is a jewel in the centre of medieval Kilkenny.

IN THIS EDITION of Heritage Ireland, we take a tour around the iconic St Canice’s Cathedral in Kilkenny, and visit a mysterious megalithic monument at Creevykeel in Co Sligo. As ever, I’m hoping to feature sites from all over the island of Ireland, and I’d love to hear your suggestions – if you have a favourite heritage site please do leave a comment below.

St Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny

Kilkenny takes its name Cill Cainnigh, from the ‘Church of Cainnech’. St Canice (Cainnech) was a 6th century monk, originally from Co Derry. The sites most associated with him were Aghaboe Abbey in Co Laois, and the monastic site here in Kilkenny, (though there is no direct evidence that he himself founded the site in Kilkenny).

The earliest visible trace of an early medieval monastic foundation at St Canice’s is the well-preserved round tower. Despite being built on precariously shallow foundations, the tower stands approximately 30 metres tall and is probably at least a thousand years old.

It is one of only two round towers in Ireland that you can still climb.

The slightly nervy trek up the 121 steps is well worth it, as you are rewarded with spectacular views over Kilkenny.

The cathedral you can see today largely dates to the 13th century, although it was extensively renovated throughout its history. Construction of the cathedral began in around 1202, under the patronage of the powerful Ango-Norman magnate William Marshall (who was also responsible for the construction of Kilkenny Castle amongst many other towns, castles, cathedrals and churches).

He brought in the finest stonemasons and craftsmen from his estates in Wales, England and Normandy.

Throughout the medieval period the cathedral was expanded, altered and redeveloped. Inside the cathedral you can experience one of Ireland’s most evocative and atmospheric medieval buildings.

St Canice’s is home to one of the finest collections of medieval tombs and effigies. These house the remains of powerful and wealthy members of high society in Kilkenny. Many of the men are depicted in their full armour, and have dogs lying at their feet. This symbolises their loyalty and fidelity. You can also gain fascinating glimpses into late medieval fashion, as many of the women are depicted with elaborate headdresses and gowns.

One the more prominent tombs in the cathedral is that of Bishop Ledrede. He is infamous for his part in the trial of Dame Alice Kyteler. She was a wealthy and well-educated woman in Kilkenny society. She married four times, with each husband dying somewhat mysteriously, leaving her even more wealthy. An accusation of witchcraft was made against her, along with her maid Petronilla, and her son William Outlaw.

Bishop Ledrede presided over a trial. However Dame Alice managed to escape to England but Petronilla was burned at the stake. Her son, William Outlaw was forced to do penance. He had to attend three masses per day for a year, feed paupers, and recover the cathedral roof with lead.

Four years after William had completed his work on the roof, it mysteriously collapsed. As well as Bishop Ledrede’s effigy you can also see the graveslab of Alice Kyteler’s father. The graveslab was found in 1894, under the pavement outside the home of Dame Alice Kyteler (now Kyteler’s Inn).

St Canice’s is a wonderful and atmospheric site to visit. If you’re lucky you may even be escorted on your tour by the original Kilkenny Cat! Please visit their website here for opening times and entry fees.

Creevykeel Court Tomb

Creevykeel is one of Ireland’s finest examples of a ‘court tomb’, a type of megalithic funerary monument that dates to the Neolithic period, the tomb is approximately 5,500 years old. Court tombs are thought to be the earliest type of megalithic tomb to have been built in Ireland.

As their name implies, they usually feature a large courtyard area that was in front of a covered gallery that contained human remains, often in two or more chambers. The galleries or chambers were originally covered with a large cairn of small stones or earth.

Creevykeel was excavated in 1935 by the Havard Archaeological Expedition. They discovered four groups of cremated human remains, two in each of the chambers at the front of the tomb, but no human remains were discovered in the chambers at the back of the tomb. They also found fragments of pottery, polished stone axeheads, stone tools like a large flint knife, scrapers and flint arrowheads and four quartz crystals.

Unfortunately due the stone walls that enclose the site, it is difficult for the visitor today to get a true sense of how the monument was positioned to sit within the landscape.

Creevykeel was reused for different purposes throughout history. Artefacts and evidence of early medieval activity were discovered, and you can still see the outline of a cereal-drying kiln that was placed in the side of the stone cairn.

Creevykeel is quite easy to find. Simply travel north around 23km from Sligo on the N15 towards Lifford. You’ll see the site signposted with a small carpark on the right-hand shoulder of the N15, just approximately 1.5km north of the village of Cliffony.

***

Fancy exploring some of Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites this weekend? Please visit my blog, Time Travel Ireland, where I have more suggestions for great places to visit.

You can also download audioguides from my website abartaheritage.ie, where we have 25 guides that tell the story of Irish heritage and the majority are absolutely free to download.

Our latest free to download guide is to the lovely heritage town of Abbeyleix in Co Laois. You can download it as a free audio-visual app (iOS or Android), please see here for a preview.

If you’d like to keep up with daily images and information about Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites please consider following Abarta Audioguides on FacebookTwitter and Instagram.

All photographs © Neil Jackman /abartaheritage.ie

Read more from Neil here>

Medieval Co Limerick and a dramatic Derry clifftop estate>

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25 Comments
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    Mute Chris Jordan
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:29 PM

    That’s not a “clash” that is outright murder. Typical journal, parroting Israeli propaganda.

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    Mute frank_66
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:21 PM

    Wouldn’t it be great to heat the Palestinian side of the story as they have no way to defend the propaganda from israel media and their allies

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    Mute frank_66
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:22 PM

    @frank_66: hear

    42
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    Mute Gavan Duffy
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:47 PM

    @frank_66: The Defence for Children International Palestine website is well worth signing up to, they give a full list of the Palestinian children killed and imprisoned by the Occupation forces,many of them held without charge by ‘ secret evidence’, all of them are tried under military law in Hebrew, a language most of them do not understand, some of them are transferred to prisons in Israel, a war crime under the Geneva conventions. Israeli colonists living in the Occupied territories are subject to Israeli civil law. Only significant sanctions by the international community will change the actions of the Israeli government.

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    Mute frank_66
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:58 PM

    @Gavan Duffy: must have a look at that

    16
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    Mute Angela McCarthy
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    Jun 11th 2021, 10:22 PM

    @frank_66: the kid probably had a weapon of mass destruction in his hand, a stone. And the poorly armed Israeli military had every right to defend itself.

    18
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    Mute Alan Ely
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:49 PM

    If only the media would call it what it is it’s not self defense its ethnic cleansing and a land grab. Boycott Israeli goods.

    170
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    Mute alan
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    Jun 11th 2021, 6:46 PM

    The ex head of Mossad said today ‘if a man constitutes a capability that endangers the citizens of Israel, he must stop existing.’ Yes, you read it right: ‘he must stop existing’. Policy in a nutshell.

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    Mute Seán Corcoran Antichrist
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    Jun 11th 2021, 7:28 PM

    So we are witnessing a genocide and nothing being done about it.

    92
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    Mute Brian MacCarthaigh
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    Jun 11th 2021, 7:14 PM

    End Apartheid… Boycott Israeli goods. #BDS

    105
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    Mute Raymond Barry
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:06 PM

    The anti Israeli sentiment expressed here is shocking frightening and shameful.

    49
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    Mute Eamonn Connaghan
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:14 PM

    @Raymond Barry: its anti child murder, anti apartheid, anti ethnic cleansing, rather than anti israhelli sentiment.

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    Mute D H
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:16 PM

    @Raymond Barry: why? Being anti apartheid, anti ethnic cleansing, being against the use of lethal force against children…. How is any of that shsmeful???

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    Mute CASO
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:17 PM

    @Raymond Barry: nothing to say about another Child murdered by the Israeli state? Says alot about you!

    45
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    Mute Sarah Connor
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:52 PM

    @Raymond Barry: Anti Countries breaching International laws and human rights on a daily basis… shocking in no way at all!

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    Mute mark d
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:54 PM

    @Raymond Barry: what’s wrong with anti Israel sentiment? Would you have said the same thing about South Africa in the 80′s?

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    Mute Gary Rowe
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    Jun 11th 2021, 9:34 PM

    @Raymond Barry: shameful? What actually IS shameful is supporting a country that behaves that way.

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    Mute Angela McCarthy
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    Jun 11th 2021, 10:32 PM

    @Raymond Barry: It certainly is shameful if you are an Israeli and supports its apartheid and murderous treatment of Palestinians.

    So Raymond when you and others are not defending Israeli actions and condemn Palestinian actions, you dont feel its frightening, shocking and shameful?

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    Mute Fergus Lynch
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    Jun 11th 2021, 10:41 PM

    @Raymond Barry: you should be ashamed of yourself.

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    Mute Tom Ripley
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    Jun 12th 2021, 12:09 AM

    @Raymond Barry: indeed Barry. Who sends a 15 years old to attack soldiers? Hamas do that. Want a child casualty. Poor fella brainwashed. Hope the soldiers get the counselling they need.

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    Mute Shedonny
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    Jun 12th 2021, 5:27 AM

    @Tom Ripley: You are full of hatred. Get treatment.

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    Mute Brendan Barry
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    Jun 12th 2021, 8:04 AM

    @Shedonny: don’t answer him he doesn’t exist troll.

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    Mute Shedonny
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    Jun 12th 2021, 9:29 AM

    @Raymond Barry:
    Ever wondered why there is anti Israeli sentiment?
    Perhaps because of events such as this (and there were many of them, Palestinians had to be replaced with immigrants in order to achieve the Israeli “dream”, or “nightmare” for the Palestinians).

    On 7 June 1967 Israel expelled over 2,000 Palestinians from the village of Imwas in the West Bank. Today, this would be called ethnic cleansing. The village was then destroyed and “reforested,” turned into a popular picnicking park for Israelis, that very deliberately obscures all traces that people actually lived in this spot 52 years ago. The Jewish National Fund raised $5 million in Canada to build it, so it is called Canada Park.
    Some of the villagers took refuge with relatives in Jerusalem, others crossed the Jordan River and ended up in new camps created in Jordan, and others would have ended up in refugee camps in Gaza.
    Two other villages near Imwas were also ethnically cleansed in June 1967, Yalu and Beit Nuba.

    Never forget!

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    Mute Contrary Mary
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    Jun 13th 2021, 8:27 AM

    @Raymond Barry: Especially since it’s a historical sentiment we have against Jews, no matter where they live. Hamas and clerics send teens out with instructions to riot, throw rocks and set off firecrackers near soldiers of a tiny state surrounded by countries with millions who hate them for their religion alone, knowing the outcome. Coveney was wrong. We have a history more in line with Israel than Palestine, so should understand where they are coming from.

    1
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    Mute Alan McArdle
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:47 PM

    Israel act with complete impunity. Always have. That’s the accepted, disturbing whitewash.

    35
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    Mute The Kev in Kevlar
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    Jun 11th 2021, 7:19 PM

    So a few here have said “boycott Israeli goods” I thought we had? “We” being the government, to stop importing? Now, I could be 100% totally wrong….if I am please shout at me as I’m a blithering idiöt….can someone help in regards what exactly do we import from Israel?

    23
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    Mute Mona Murphy
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    Jun 11th 2021, 7:27 PM

    @The Kev in Kevlar: it’s the companies who financially support Israel like coca cola you need to boycott you can get a list of them on the Internet and you can check up israel bar code. A lot of cosmetic companies support them as well as car companies etc

    47
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    Mute The Kev in Kevlar
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    Jun 11th 2021, 7:35 PM

    @Mona Murphy: super, thanks for the info!:)

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    Mute Shedonny
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:03 PM

    @The Kev in Kevlar:
    A lot of fruit and vegetables come from Israel, grown on Palestinian land but labelled as “made in Israel” to profit from the low tariffs agreed with the EU. This is illegal and should stop. Ireland needs to pass the Occupied Territories Bill, which FG blocked during the negotiations for the new government last year.
    Tesco has Israeli potatoes and avocados. Vote with your purse, don’t buy them.

    33
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    Mute Sarah Connor
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    Jun 11th 2021, 8:49 PM

    @The Kev in Kevlar: Still a lot of Israeli fruit and veg in the shops, stuff you can grow here in the summer, or within the EU all year round. Makes no sense be it for environmental or political reasons. Boycott Israeli products, but also, just try to shop local when possible!

    19
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    Mute Victor Feldman
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    Jun 12th 2021, 12:03 AM

    @The Kev in Kevlar: all the technology
    You use ie mobile phones. TV, cars. Mobile maps. Medicines,. Computers,
    Radio, s.. Hospital equipment etc
    Have israeli components in them..
    So you might as well stop living!!!

    7
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    Mute Shedonny
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    Jun 12th 2021, 5:57 AM

    @Mona Murphy:
    See the BDS movement website: https://bdsmovement.net/.
    In the meantime, here are a few products you can boycott if you wish:

    AHAVA DEAD SEA COSMETICS

    Ahava manufactures its cosmetics in a factory in the illegal Mitzpe Shalem settlement in occupied West Bank, but labels its products imported into the EU as from “The Dead Sea, Israel.” It uses uses Palestinian natural resources without the permission of or compensation to Palestinians. Israel denies Palestinians access to the shores of the Dead Sea and its resources, although one-third of the shore of the Dead Sea lies in the occupied West Bank.

    VICTORIA SECRETS
    Palestinians have criticized the company for establishing its headquarters on land expropriated from Palestinians.

    INTEL
    Intel plants are on the site of the former Palestinian villages Iraq al-Manshiya and Faluja, from which villagers were forcibly expelled in 1948 to achieve Israel’s strategic plan to achieve ‘Arab-clear’ frontiers”, i.e. ethnic cleansing.

    MCDONALDS
    McDonalds has a partnership with the Jewish United Fund, which promotes visits to Kiryat Gat, built on top of a destroyed Palestinian village.

    SODASTREAM CARBONED PRODUCTS

    Sodasteam is located in the illegal Israeli settlement of Maale Adumim. The company directly supports Israel’s illegal occupation and colonization of Palestinian land by paying taxes to municipal settlement governments, employing local settlers, and providing the economic infrastructure for Israel’s settlement expansion.

    7
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    Mute Brendan Barry
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    Jun 12th 2021, 8:03 AM

    @Victor Feldman: stop living like the 15 year old murdered by an apartheid government that doesn’t have the backing of many of their citizens. https://www.btselem.org/

    4
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    Mute Christy McCarthy
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    Jun 11th 2021, 10:22 PM

    Raymond Barry
    So the murder of children isn’t shocking.

    25
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