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"A place of sacrifice": Tour the stone circle that freaked out a 1930s psychic

Archaeologist Neil Jackman explores one of the country’s finest stone circles and the quiet final resting place of a remarkable penal times priest.

IN THE LATEST edition of the Hidden Heritage series, we take a trip to the beautifully picturesque Drombeg Stone Circle in Co Cork, and the medieval ruins of Creevelea Friary in Co Leitrim.

As ever, I’m hoping to feature sites from all over the island of Ireland, and I’d love to hear your suggestions – if you have a favourite heritage site please do leave a comment below.

Drombeg Stone Circle, Co Cork

Drombeg is one of the finest of Ireland’s stone circles and certainly the most popular, attracting large numbers of tourists due to its picturesque setting. Like most of Ireland’s stone circles, the construction of Drombeg is thought to date to the middle and later period of the Bronze Age, approximately 3,000 years ago.

Stone circles are often considered to be places of ritual and ceremony. Drombeg is aligned with the setting sun of the midwinter solstice (on 21 December), a hugely important time in the ancient calendar as it marked the shortest day and longest night of the year. A time of rebirth and renewal as from that point on the days begin to grow.

Drombeg’s celestial alignment was first noted by Boyle Somerville in 1923, who saw that when observed from the entrance to the circle, the sun is aligned with the position of the large recumbent (horizontal) stone.

The site has long been imbued with folklore and mythology, with the large recumbent stone being called ‘The Druid’s Altar’. In his book A Guide to the Stone Circles of Britain, Ireland and Brittany, archaeologist Aubrey Burl records the story of Boyle Somerville who returned to the site in September 1935, accompanied by a psychic, Miss Geraldine Cummings:

She did not like the place. She felt it was…a place where animals, if not small children, were sacrificed at each winter solstice. She ‘saw’ a priest in blue and saffron robes standing at the altar of the recumbent about to kill his human offering… Drombeg was cursed. It was ‘guarded by spirits of darkness’.

I didn’t notice anything overly sinister myself during our visit on Wednesday – instead of blue robed druids we just saw a number of camera-wielding tourists enjoying a lovely sunny day in west Cork. If you’re interested in more of the folklore associated with the site do visit the excellent Voices of the Dawn website.

The site was excavated in 1957 by EM Fahy. He discovered that there was a compact gravelly surface within the circle, with a central pit containing the cremated remains of an adolescent and a broken, coarse pot dating to 1124–794 BC, perhaps as Aubrey Burl hints, this young person was an offering to the ancient gods.

Nearby the stone circle you can discover the stone foundations of Bronze Age huts and a well-preserved fulacht fiadh, these are a typical Bronze Age monument and fulacht fiadh are found across Ireland. Like this fine example at Drombeg, fulacht fiadh generally consisted of a stone-lined pit or trough, filled with water.

Stones were heated on a fire, and when the stones were red hot they were dropped into the water, eventually causing the water to boil. Their function has been long debated in archaeology, from the traditional view of cooking places, to dying clothes, bathing pools or saunas and even as a brewery.

Back in 2007, I was fortunate to attend a reconstruction of a fulacht used to brew beer in County Galway by archaeologists Declan Moore and Billy Quinn. The simple process worked a treat, and produced very drinkable (and pretty strong!) ale. Just the kind of thing you’d want for a long cold mid-winter evening waiting for the solstice!

Drombeg is a lovely site to visit, and on a bright sunny day there are few better places to be in the world than west Cork. You’ll find the site less than 10 mins drive from Rosscarbery, off the R597 road to Glandore at co-ordinates: 51.564561, -9.086998.

Creevelea Friary, Co Leitrim

Creevelea 1

Dating to 1508, this stunning medieval friary was one of the last major monasteries founded in Ireland prior to the Dissolution of the Monasteries under King Henry VIII in the mid-16th century. Creevelea was founded as a Franciscan friary by Owen O’Rourke and his wife Margaret O’Brien. These wealthy benefactors were said to have been buried in a magnificent tomb close to the altar of the church, but unfortunately nothing remains of their burial place today.

After its foundation, the friary thrived until it was accidentally burned down in 1536. Attempts were made to restore the friary, though the Dissolution ended hopes of a renewal, and in 1539 the friary was suppressed. By the end of the 1500s, Sir Richard Bingham had converted the church into a stable for his soldiers horses, however records suggest that a small community of friars continued to live and worship in part of the friary until the end of the close of the 17th century.

Despite its relatively short life, Creevelea is a beautiful and evocative place to explore, with many fine architectural details to discover. In the cloisters, you can find some interesting and unusual carvings, like that of St Francis marked with stigmata, and another of St Francis standing in a pulpit with birds perched in a tree, a reference to the story of him learning the language of birds. Also amongst the cloisters you can find a number of fine masons’ marks delicately chiselled into the stonework.

Creevelea 2

Eventually the site became a graveyard, one of the more interesting burials is that of Fr Bernard Peter Magauran. He was born in Ballintogher, Co Sligo in around 1772 and is considered to have been the last friar of Dromohair. The penal laws restricted Catholic education from the late 17th to the mid 19th centuries so Peter travelled to Louvain in Belgium for his education. He returned to Ireland, ordained as a Fransican Friar and worked for a time in Dublin, preaching to the poor Catholics from the Fransican Church called Adam and Eve, located on Merchant’s Quay.

As freedom to worship was banned for Catholics, the Adam and Eve chapel was hidden behind a tavern of the same name on Cook Street. In 1826, Fr Magauran was transferred to Leitrim and became a parish priest.

He was said to have been a very devout man and extremely generous to the poor of the parish. He was often to be found praying by the small carving of St Francis in the cloister at Creevelea. He died in 1837 at the age of 65 and was buried in the cloisters of the friary.

His grave then became a site of veneration for people who knew or had heard of his good works. To this day, people still leave offerings and the soil from his grave is still believed by some to have curative properties.

Creevelea is a lovely place to visit, and certainly worth a trip. You’ll find it located close to Dromahair on the banks of the Bonet River at co-ordinates: 54.231140, -8.309626.

***

Fancy exploring some of Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites this weekend? Please visit my blog, Time Travel Ireland, where I have more suggestions for great places to visit.

You can also download audioguides from my website abartaheritage.ie, where we have 25 guides that tell the story of Irish heritage and the majority are absolutely free to download.

If you’d like to keep up with daily images and information about Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites please consider following Abarta Audioguides on FacebookTwitter and Instagram.

All photographs © Neil Jackman /abartaaudioguides.com

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25 Comments
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    Mute O Swetenham
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:13 PM

    In fairness, he really was terrific at haranguing. A masterful haranguer. No better harangutan has ever graced Irish television.

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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 5th 2017, 11:47 PM

    @O Swetenham: There are so many. Can’t seem to copy in links but you can find them handy enough. The episode with crazy Conor “I’ll come at you” Lenihan was classic Vinny and the grilling of Regina O’connor running for the Senate was brilliant. One of my favourite ever was the interview with independent candidate Gary Birmingham running in the Dublin West by-election, YOU HAVE TO WATCH IT! It’s absolute comedy gold. All on YouTube

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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:11 AM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: Found the link to that one, enjoy: https://youtu.be/JWqFWYIQEmE

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    Mute Chris Kirk
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    Jul 27th 2017, 9:47 AM

    @O Swetenham: With the calibre of clowns on the VB show who set themselves up to be harangued.

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    Mute Paul Santry
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    Jul 27th 2017, 10:38 AM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: OMG, so funny

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    Mute Joe Conlon
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    Jul 27th 2017, 10:46 AM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: thank you for that, that is still hard to watch!

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    Mute Perry2016
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    Jul 27th 2017, 12:28 PM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: thats hilarious

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    Mute Mark D'Arcy
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    Jul 27th 2017, 3:50 PM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: Here is the link to the full mockumentary:

    Watch “Shamrocracy (Full Length)” on YouTube
    https://youtu.be/L2tJI6BceT8

    Definitely worth a watch

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    Mute Mick Micky
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    Jul 27th 2017, 6:35 PM

    @O Swetenham: Don’t forget the ultimate which the Journal didn’t include because it’s so bad (it’s the funniest thing ever!)…. Regina O’Connor https://youtube.com/watch?v=ePYNPPh2dCI

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    Mute GO GREEN
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:38 PM

    He was the best, gave life to a zombie TV3, never boring, knew his stuff better than the politicians, incisive and full of passion in his quest to get answers out of politicians. Maybe he could do one hour specials as TV3 will never be the same again.

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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 5th 2017, 11:57 PM

    @GO GREEN: Vín B single handedly educated me about Irish politics. His depth of knowledge and command of language was unrivalled and inspirational. I developed a serious addiction and obsession with his show around the time of the collapse and then up to the 2011 election. An extraordinary broadcaster. We were so lucky that he got that late night slot with TV3 that allowed him such editorial freedom. His shows painfully highlighted just how staged and choreographed Rte shows were and still are. One of the icons of live Irish TV of the last 20.

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    Mute David Kavanagh
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    Jul 6th 2017, 10:08 AM

    @GO GREEN: TV3 should get him to do a Friday night show for an hour (not live) with current affairs and entertainment to compete with Tubs and show a decent film after the show. Fork out decent cash for guests and they’d be sorted.

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    Mute GO GREEN
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:05 PM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: Totally agree well said. At at time of recession where people were hurting as a result of vile banksters Vinnie bursted onto our screens and was the voice of the people.

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    Mute The Risen
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:15 PM

    Or the time he filleted Klaus Masuch? We needed 100 more VinBs before, during and after the crisis.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAf7J4a_T1g

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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:02 AM

    @The Risen: Surely it’s been more than a decade since he’s first on?

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    Mute james connolly
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    Jul 27th 2017, 11:12 AM

    @The Risen: The way he filleted that evil terrorist mcguinness was a joy to behold. I’ll never tire of watching that

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    Mute Brian MacCarthaigh
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    Jul 27th 2017, 2:52 PM

    @The Risen: Absolute gold. He’ll be sorely missed.

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    Mute Turlough O' Connor
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    Jul 27th 2017, 6:40 PM

    @james connolly:
    P!ss off Connolly

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    Mute Mark D
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    Jul 5th 2017, 11:36 PM

    Oh my god, just looked at the Joan Burton clip. Is it any wonder she was held in a Garda car, she just goes on & on like a broken record

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    Mute john Appleseed
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    Jul 27th 2017, 10:41 AM

    @Mark D: the drone of her voice… unless woman. How she held onto her seat, I’ll never know

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    Mute JJ O'Carroll
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:09 PM

    The man is has been at the cutting edge of Irish journalism for decades.

    Recently though he’s gone off the boil, absolute array of z listers on every night.

    Vincent is disgusted that the left in Ireland are in a shambles

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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:17 AM

    @JJ O’Carroll: Always enjoy this filleting of Regina O’connor: https://youtu.be/ePYNPPh2dCI

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    Mute Joe Bloggs
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    Jul 6th 2017, 11:22 AM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: that is the first video that springs to mind. He absolutely ruined her!

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    Mute Eanna Mc Grath
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    Jul 5th 2017, 11:17 PM

    I was really hoping that the clip of him getting out all the books in front of Martin Mc Guinness about him being in the IRA.

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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:05 AM

    @Eanna Mc Grath: Epic fail. Martin openly admitted many times that he was in the IRA you clown!

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    Mute John003
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:40 AM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: The point Vincent was making with the books was that Martin McGuinness was not telling the truth when he said he left the IRA in 1975….Not that he never was in the IRA….

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    Mute Honeybadger197
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    Jul 6th 2017, 8:08 AM

    @John003: https://youtu.be/uCnH2v1h_dw
    Here it is.

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    Mute Eanna Mc Grath
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    Jul 6th 2017, 11:15 AM

    @An_Beal_Bocht: Ha, I didn’t say that he did or didn’t admit anything, I just thought it was a classic Vinny B moment.

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    Mute Mary Elizabeth Whittle
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    Jul 27th 2017, 12:00 PM

    @Eanna Mc Grath: it was Gerry who had the issue admitting who he was affiliated to…. Martin was upfront.

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    Mute james connolly
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    Jul 27th 2017, 2:02 PM

    @Mary Elizabeth Whittle: that evil terrorist mcguinness never assisted the police with anything, to call him upfront is laughable.

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    Mute Stephen Redmond
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:33 AM

    The one about gorse hill where he door stepped the property in the day and had a guest on that evening who he tore shreds off, went to an add break came back and the guest had gone! He was someone supporting the family’s right to keep the property, can’t remember his name

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    Mute Darren Bates
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    Jul 6th 2017, 10:10 AM

    @Stephen Redmond: some freeman on the land loonie if I remember correctly

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    Mute Daniel Patrick Carry
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    Jul 7th 2017, 5:37 PM
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    Mute Deborah Behan
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    Jul 27th 2017, 11:24 AM

    @Stephen Redmond: lol! Everyone was just standing outside and VinB said it’s not their property what are you all waiting for? And charges through the gates just stopping to fix his microphone because even his sound man was shocked at what he did!

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    Mute Terry O'Callaghan
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:20 PM

    And good riddance

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    Mute John003
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:27 PM

    The time he had some new SF European parliament member on…..In the middle of him going on about some policy….Vincent says “Did you ever meet Slab Murphy”….His face went white all he could say was “No Vincent” ….He was very good at the left field unexpected question…..Tbank you Vincent you will be missed….

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    Mute Seamus Og
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:49 PM

    @John003: Or the nightly face reddening of ff/fg td’s, senators and mp’s when he cornered them and showed them up for the liars and cheats they are. And you remember 1 incident with Matt Carthy who said he hadnt met slab. So what. I saw the episode but missed the white face you speak of.

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    Mute Turlough O' Connor
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    Jul 27th 2017, 6:42 PM

    @Terry O’Callaghan:
    Friend of Bertie’s Terry?

    1
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    Mute Frederic Slimane
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    Jul 5th 2017, 11:39 PM

    it is a good move from him,he is the one who decided this was his time to go and not overstay until he was sacked/asked to leave that’s the least he deserves for sharing his political knowledge and making it easier/ less boring for many people!!

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    Mute Kate Flaherty
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    Jul 27th 2017, 9:59 AM

    Vincent I salute you!, a true legend, continued good health, success and happiness……

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    Mute Darren Bates
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    Jul 6th 2017, 10:35 AM

    Great story of him when he was editor of the Sunday Tribune. Tony Ryan had bought the newspaper and him and Vincent were like cat and dog. They had a board meeting and Tony went to punch Vincent but didn’t he miss. The punch ends up glancing the head of the (by then very old) nobel peace prize winner Sean Mac Bride. Sean was a bit of a drama queen and went down like a bag of spuds, and Vincent got the satisfaction of everyone walking into the room seeing Tony’s fist above the old man. Ryan exited the newspaper soon after.

    29
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    Mute Chris Kirk
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    Jul 27th 2017, 9:43 AM

    Vincent shot himself in the foot on more than one occasion like the time before the 2011 general election, when he suggested; ‘Enda Kenny take himself with a pistol and a bottle of whiskey and lock himself in a small room’. Since then Kenny refused to be interviewed by Vincent Browne.

    22
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    Mute Turlough O' Connor
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    Jul 27th 2017, 6:46 PM

    @Chris Kirk:
    You really believe that Kenny wouldn’t go on Vincent’s programme because of that statement??
    He was too scared to and used that as an excuse

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    Mute Brigid Popps
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    Jul 8th 2017, 8:00 AM

    I will really miss Vinney Brown! He was Brilliant really loved the Joan Burton show

    21
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    Mute Mark Moloney
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:30 PM

    Ah lads, this has to be one of the best.

    Bernard Durkan refusing to shut up: https://youtu.be/R8BQCqgnIrI

    52
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    Mute Jason Carroll
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:38 PM

    Thanks for that, super! He really is super journalist.

    45
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    Mute An_Beal_Bocht
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    Jul 6th 2017, 12:10 AM

    This is the Gary Birmingham one, tops them all: https://youtu.be/JWqFWYIQEmE

    21
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    Mute Ken Pepper
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    Jul 27th 2017, 9:38 AM

    The off screen ”ah yeah…..ah yeah……jaysus”

    - best responses to any Politian’s claptrap ever….

    17
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    Mute Peter Higgins
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    Jul 6th 2017, 5:22 PM

    One of the best alright. Over the years his frustration at the lefts inability to unify and offer a cohesive alternative to the usual right wing politics, was palpable.

    I thought Sarah McInerney did a very good job when covering for Vincent recently; she’s a worthy contender.

    16
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    Mute Ken Pepper
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    Jul 27th 2017, 9:37 AM

    The one with Lenihan was comedy gold…he will be missed

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    Mute Pie O ' My
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    Jul 5th 2017, 10:24 PM

    Didn’t he have a run in with the workers party years ago?

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    Mute Darren Bates
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    Jul 6th 2017, 10:10 AM

    @Pie O ‘ My: Think aul Vinnie has had a run in with everyone!

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    Mute Daniel Patrick Carry
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    Jul 7th 2017, 5:38 PM

    This annihilation of Dara Murphy is by far my personal favourite https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEcUBXI4ZX8

    10
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    Mute Joe Soap
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    Jul 27th 2017, 11:10 AM

    Bertie ahern, what a slimey little bollox

    28
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    Mute Andrew Brennan
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    Jul 6th 2017, 9:42 PM

    After two hours ‘debating’ with Joan, Vincent, Higgins and the fellow that lost to the fellow who got socks from Canada, all jumped into the Liffey and were drowned. Gardai charged Joan with murder …. needless to say she was acquitted by the jury.

    Listening to the political & legal grapevine there is talk that the charges were over the top and she should have been charged with interrupting Vincent 117 times.

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    Mute Deborah Behan
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    Jul 27th 2017, 11:30 AM

    I’ll definitely miss VinB. They broke the mould when they made him! I wish him a long and happy retirement. Who can fill his boots? My vote would go to Ursula Halligan, fantastic journalist, well respected and extremely knowledgeable. It would be a different show but I’d give it a watch.

    9
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    Mute Miriam Kane
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    Jul 6th 2017, 1:19 AM

    Looking at Joan’s performance on the show is mortification its self. Do they deliberately only let shit women into positions of power so that when they mess up it provides a stick to keep all women out.

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    Mute gerry fallon
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    Jul 27th 2017, 9:54 AM

    Thank God he’s finally decided to retire.
    He’s hard work and very annoying.just a narky old man really.

    7
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    Mute Anthony Gallagher
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    Jul 27th 2017, 2:20 PM

    Vincent brown was great entertainment ,but i doubt very much that he has changed the course of irish history. a pity because he had a great brain .

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    Mute Patrick Paukie Cleary
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    Jul 27th 2017, 10:52 AM

    A bellicose bombastic buffoon with his head permanently stuck up his own echo chamber in case he would see anyonelse’s points of view especially ones he disagreed with!!!

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    Mute Turlough O' Connor
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    Jul 27th 2017, 6:49 PM

    @Patrick Paukie Cleary:
    Another friend of Bertie eh?

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    Mute Andrew Eager
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    Jul 27th 2017, 11:38 AM

    The haranguer-in-chief getting a bollocking by Fionan Sheahan gives me an inordinate amount of joy. He was no more able to deal with it than the very many political sacrficial lambs that were sent out to Ballymount to face his bollockings. Goose and gander and all that guff.

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    Mute Rachel Didleu
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    Jul 6th 2017, 10:44 AM

    Ara, he is not well, an cratúr

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    Mute Dolly White
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    Jul 27th 2017, 10:27 AM

    Vincent Browne can certainly die happy after all this slavering lickspittle. Something he professes to despise but I doubt it. I’m Browned off with the canonisation of a very flawed individual. I’ve encountered Browne roadkill and they aren’t politicians.

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    Mute Paul Culligan
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    Jul 27th 2017, 10:36 PM

    Vincent the Great.

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    Mute Martin Ryan
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    Jul 6th 2017, 4:25 PM

    Good luck Vincent it was great watching your performance, you did not have any mercy on any one who tried to fool the people. Hope you enjoy retirement will miss your wit, it doesn’t matter who takes your place,they will not fill your boots, the show will not be the same.

    1
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