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Ukerewe: A haven for albinos in a country where they're murdered for their body parts

Albino body parts are sought after for potions and charms thought to bring luck and wealth.

shutterstock_320720648 (1) Children play in Ukerewe, Tanzania last year. Shutterstock / Dietmar Temps Shutterstock / Dietmar Temps / Dietmar Temps

IT’S AN HOUR after dawn on Ukerewe island in Lake Victoria and Alphonce Yakobo, face and hands withered by the scorching sun that has tortured his pigment-free skin for all of his 57 years, is vigorously sweeping the leaves outside his house.

“This is the best time of the day: the day has begun but the sun is not yet up,” he says.

In a few minutes time Yakobo will put on a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses and slather sunscreen over every bit of his exposed skin.

Yakobo suffers from a genetic condition called albinism, meaning his body does not produce melanin leaving his skin, hair and eyes devoid of pigmentation and protection from the sun.

Like all people with albinism, Yakobo has very poor eyesight and is extremely vulnerable to skin cancer.

But the sun overhead is not the only threat to albinos.

Here in Tanzania, as well as in Malawi and some other parts of sub-Saharan Africa, albino body parts are sought after for potions and charms thought to bring luck and wealth, and many fall victim to murderers who dismember their bodies to supply this grisly black market trade.

Canadian charity Under The Same Sun (UTSS) has documented 161 attacks on people with albinism in Tanzania in recent years, including 76 murders, more than anywhere else in Africa.

Yet Ukerewe island is relatively untouched by this phenomenon.

“There were times when I was afraid in the past, but now I thank God because we can sleep at night without a gun,” says Yakobo, who works as a fishmonger in Ukerewe market.

“Here, we are safe, we are surrounded by water, no one can commit a crime and escape easily,” said Yakobo, who has three wives but regrets that not one of his 11 children is albino.

We could talk, and I would feel like I had passed on a part of myself.

Murder-free zone 

Over the years, Ukerewe has become known as a haven for people with albinism.

People say that it started long ago when families would abandon their albino relatives on the island, believing their unusual, ghostly appearance was the sign of a curse. They survived and thrived and others, ostracised by society, made their way there too.

“In many respects, Ukerewe is at the forefront of integration of albinos in society. And I think the fact that it’s an island plays a big part in the minds of people, but reality is a bit more nuanced,” says Harry Freeland, founder of the non-governmental organisation Standing Voice and the maker of a documentary about Ukerewe.

According to the Ukerewe Albino Society (UAS) there are 75 people with albinism living on the island of 200,000, a proportion roughly in keeping with the national average.

shutterstock_320720570 A mother and her son pictured in Ukerewe. Shutterstock / Dietmar Temps Shutterstock / Dietmar Temps / Dietmar Temps

As elsewhere in Tanzania, body-snatchers have come to the island to dig albino corpses from their graves and in 2007 one person was attacked and had his white hair cut for use in witchcraft, says Vicky Ntetema, director of the Tanzanian branch of UTSS.

“But we have never had an albino murder,” points out Ramadhan Khalifa, president of Ukerewe’s albino community.

Abandoned 

“Ukerewe is unique in that sense,” says Freeland. “It was in Ukerewe that the first census was done. The initiative came from the former president of UAS, and it was in 2006.”

“I’m not afraid of being attacked,” says Kajanja Neema, 36, dissecting tiny fish for the evening meal, along a busy street from the main town of the island.

His brother Zacharia accompanies his songs with an air guitar. “Yes, Ukerewe is safer than mainland, but it’s not perfect,” he said.

Sometimes, people say they will kill us, and we never know if they mean it or not.

Even if physical violence is rare, discrimination is not.

Hadija Namtondo is a 30-year old mother with black skin and a four-year-old albino son called Riziki.

“When his father saw the colour of the child, he was not happy, and he has abandoned us,” she says.

- © AFP, 2016

Read: Children found with lice and ringworm in a house with no food

Read: “People said Pádraig was as good as dead – he is proving everybody wrong”

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    Mute Amy Gaffney
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    Jun 26th 2016, 10:09 AM

    Where’s the rest of this story? Do journalists nowadays not believe in conclusion paragraphs?

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    Mute Etherman
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    Jun 26th 2016, 10:37 AM

    She awoke suddenly, sweat beading on her brow. It was all just a terrible dream.

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    Mute Mark Fields
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    Jun 26th 2016, 10:39 AM

    The conclusion was abandoned.

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    Mute Jho Harris
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    Jun 26th 2016, 6:20 PM

    Conclusion? You want people on Jobridge to do conclusions for a measly € 50 extra AND work weekends.

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    Mute Ahleaveitout
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    Jun 26th 2016, 10:50 AM

    God you could’ve finished the story. You could tell people that the threat to albinos is so bad when they’re buried they have to be encased in concrete to stop people digging them up for witch doctors. It’s cruel and inhuman and why bother telling half a story, they deserve to have their full story heard.

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    Mute Jho Harris
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    Jun 26th 2016, 11:07 AM

    Strange mindset that a father regrets not passing on his Albinoism, particularly when it carries such threats.

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    Mute Paddy Byrne
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    Jun 26th 2016, 11:24 AM

    Yeah i agree. If i was put into his position i wouldnt want my kids to be albino With All the dangers and risks to there health.

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    Mute ray.farrelly
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    Jun 26th 2016, 11:46 AM

    Savages.

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    Mute Gary
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    Jun 26th 2016, 11:17 AM

    The article reminds me of the old nursery rhyme Jack a Nory.

    I’ll tell you a story
    About Jack a Nory,
    And now my story’s begun;

    I’ll tell you another
    About Jack and his brother,
    And now my story’s done.

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    Mute Patrick Gough
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    Jun 26th 2016, 1:32 PM

    I’ll tell you a story about Johnny mcgory will I begin it that’s all that’s in it that’s how I heard the story on my mother’s knee

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    Mute Eóghain Pádraig MacEochagáin
    Favourite Eóghain Pádraig MacEochagáin
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    Jun 26th 2016, 1:40 PM

    But we must respect their culture and beliefs.

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    Mute Tom Carroll
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    Jun 26th 2016, 6:08 PM

    A very racist attitude for a black person to abandon his child because he was white.

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    Mute Tweeter
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    Jun 26th 2016, 12:22 PM

    This article made me giggle, mainly. Because it’s just so far out there, I couldn’t take it seriously. Then to top it off your man abandoned his albino child and the mother OFFS.

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