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My Best Road Trip: taking in volcanic views, glaciers and geo-thermal pools in Iceland

Taking in all the breath-taking scenery Iceland has to offer with my mates in a Land Rover Defender.

Iceland Route Our planned route

  • Each week, TheJournal.ie/DoneDeal motoring mag will feature a reader’s best road trip. If you’d love to see your top trip featured, email us on bestroadtrip@thejournal.ie

MY BEST ROAD trip was driving a Land Rover Defender around Iceland.

Who: Thomas Fanning, Dublin

Route: South West, Iceland

Distance: 1,235km

Time: 6 days

When: November 2015

Vehicle: Land Rover, Defender

Having fallen in love with Iceland in the summer of 2014, I decided to return to experience wintertime Iceland in November last year. The general consensus from Icelandic travel veterans is that summer and winter are two unique but equally incredible experiences.

Planning your trip well in advance will ensure you get the absolute most out of an Iceland trip. We booked Airbnbs each night and these were our target destinations and we tried to limit each day’s driving to 200 kilometres. The Icelandic scenery is so rich and diverse it’s important to leave lots of wiggle room for stops.

For this trip we hired a modified Land Rover Defender billed by the rental company as a SUPER DEFENDER. In general the main roads are quite good and a two-wheeled drive vehicle would suffice but there were a couple of occasions where we wouldn’t have been able to proceed without a 4×4.

SuperDefender The mighty Super Defender

We arrived around lunchtime on a Friday, collected the Defender from the rental company beside the airport and made the short drive to Reykjavik to grab supplies. I highly recommend renting a MiFi hub. It was cheaper than renting a GPS from the car rental company and having constant internet access is very useful when trying to decide between local attractions.

After a long day travelling and getting prepped for the trip, we eased into things by driving to the Blue Lagoon and spending a few hours chilling in the geothermal waters.

stuckbehindahouse We got stuck behind a house being moved which almost caused us to miss the ferry

Our destination for day two was the Westmann Islands. We caught a bit of luck here when our host told us the ferry wasn’t sailing from the intended port but had to be moved due to silt. I had foolishly ignored text messages (in Icelandic) from the ferry company thinking they were related to data roaming charges. This meant we had a much shorter drive and gave us more time to explore the south west of the island but also meant we were on the boat longer and would have less time on Vestmannaeyjar.

Vestmannaeyjar became internationally famous in 1973 when Eldfell erupted and the entire island had to be evacuated. Our Airbnb had a hot tub with “a volcano view” and it was very reasonably priced. I think they underestimate the premium “a volcano view” could bring in.

vestmannayjar The sun setting on the Westmann Islands.

The closer ferry port back to the mainland had reopened on Sunday morning so we were able to do the shorter crossing and continue with our trip. Not everyone in our group had done the Golden Circle so we were going to spend most of Sunday following the most famous tourist trail in Iceland.

The Golden Circle contains three primary stops but there are dozens of other points of interest. Kerið is my personal favourite, it’s a volcanic crater lake located in Grímsnes. When you climb down to the shoreline it’s eerily quiet and the red gravel makes it feel like it belongs on Mars.

horse selfie Famed for their emo looking haircuts and friendly temperament the Icelandic horse loves a good selfie.

We did did all the big hitters on the Golden Circle with the exception of Þingvellir which we were saving for the following morning. Our accommodation for the night was in the national park and as with all the Airbnbs we booked for this trip, it contained an outdoor hot tub to help ease stiff bodies after a long day driving.

After a short drive to Þingvellir to gawk at the earth literally tearing itself apart we were all set for the longest drive of our trip. A 230-kilometre drive to Snaefellsjoekull National Park.

Double rainbow at Þingvellir

As we were leaving the National Park I noticed Google maps was offering an alternative route that didn’t involved driving on the main road (Route One). Being the adventurous type I lobbied for the new route and after a quick vote we decided to change course.

This turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip. We travelled for hours barely seeing any signs of life and being completely blown away by the diversity of the landscape. At times it felt like we had landed on the moon but a few miles later we were in green farming valleys that almost made us homesick. It’s worth mentioning we would not have been able to complete this leg without the Land Rover. At times the road was barely deserving of that title and there were a couple of steep inclines and declines. The Super Defender took it all in stride and we made it safely to our destination.

We were staying two nights in Snaefellsjokull but you could stay here for weeks and not got bored. We did a snowmobile tour up the glacier which while expensive ended up being worth every penny. We drove into a cloud and couldn’t see more than a few metres ahead. Our guide said it was too dangerous and we would wait a few minutes for to see if it passed. After ten minutes he indicated we would have to go back down but just as we started the snowmobiles engines the cloud lifted and we were greeted with the most amazing view of the Westfjords.

snow mobile In our defence, our guide asked us to pose like this

On our last night in the Snaefellsjoekull we were driving through the park in total darkness when the Northern Lights decided to make and appearance. We’d been desperately hoping to catch them and had all but given up. We pulled in to the side of the road and bore witness to the cosmic ballet taking place directly over our heads. It’s one of the many experiences from this trip I will never forget.

The following morning we drove back to Reykjavik, the Airwaves music festival was on and we were using it to wind down from the road trip. The Super Defender was no longer needed so with heavy hearts we said goodbye.

goodbye super defender Last squad photo with the SUPER DEFENDER

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8 Comments
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    Mute Andy K
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    Aug 30th 2017, 6:50 AM

    Tribunals and inquiries are pointless and cost the taxpayer many millions. They are a blessing to any lawyer and other legal people involved, but a burden to the rest.

    Not only do they cost a lot, they also seem to only do half the job. While they might investigate who was responsible, they fail to actually put the responsible people behind bars. In many countries politicians can be jailed for corruption or false expenses. Not in this country. They are treated like superstars (in the eyes of the court) and can get away with anything, like the minister for finance claiming he did not have a bank account.

    What we need is a form of tribunal/inquiry that can lock the responsible politician up for up to a life scentence, see their pension stripped and fined a large amount (maybe cover the cost of the tribunal/inquiry). This would put fear back in politicians, which has been non existent so far.

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    Mute Kevin McDonnell
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:06 AM

    @Andy K: And then nobody would do anything for fear of doing something wrong.

    You missed the point of the article in that if you fall into the trap of a blame game a) the truth never comes out and b) the organisation grinds to a halt.
    We need transparency not an emotional response to “lock ‘em up”

    By all means people should be jailed for corruption but 99% of failures and losses are due to organisational flaws, genuine mistakes or good ‘ole fashioned incompetence – not malice. You can’t jail people for failure

    26
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    Mute Brown Boots
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:12 AM

    @Kevin McDonnell: 96% of random stats are made up on the spot!

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    Mute Kevin McDonnell
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:18 AM

    @Brown Boots: Ha ha – correct
    99% is a term of speech rather than a literal fact

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    Mute Nick Allen
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:23 AM

    @Kevin McDonnell:

    I would suspect the actual stat is a lot higher than 99%

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    Mute Andy K
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:29 AM

    @Kevin McDonnell: Sorry if it seemed like it, but I didnt say we should lock people up for ‘failure’.

    But, if you are in charge, and scandal after scandal appears and you do not seem like you are trying your best to fix it then you should be jailed as you failed your duty. Much like our garda commissioner, who is being called for to ‘step down’ rather than hold her accountable for failure (and possibly corruption).

    You cannot expect people to have a position of power and, when the county needs you turn your back and pretend like you did nothing, as doing nothing is not punishable.

    In most countries if you see someone dying but you did nothing, you commited a jailable offense and will go to prison if convicted.

    We do not elect politicians to stand around and twiddle their thumbs in a crisis. They chose to be elected, so they should be responsible.

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    Mute Jonathan Kennedy
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    Aug 30th 2017, 8:28 AM

    @Andy K: I don’t think a person chooses to get elected. I think a person puts themselves forward for election, because they think that they could make a change for the better. The electorate choose to elect that person or not. If the electorate choose unwisely then they are the ones who suffer.

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    Mute Chris Kirk
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    Aug 30th 2017, 9:38 AM

    @Jonathan Kennedy: There are too many ‘pillars of society’ in our communities created by the establishment and leaving no room for people who actually do most of the work.

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    Mute Francis Devenney
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    Aug 30th 2017, 9:59 AM

    @Andy K: We have a system for locking up people who commit crimes, The courts. I would not be happy with giving politicians the power to jail people. And if someones actions regardless of how reprehensible are not a crime they should not be jailed. So to have some sort of tribunal with those powers they would have to have the same safeguards and procedures as the courts such as the presumption of innocence and rules of evidence, in other words simply a duplication of the courts, and how much would that cost?

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    Mute eileen boles
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    Sep 1st 2017, 12:37 PM

    @Brown Boots:surely not!

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    Mute Ben McArthur
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    Aug 30th 2017, 6:42 AM

    “What is needed are comprehensive accountability regimes that include everyone involved. An important part of this is mutual accountability that is enacted along task interdependencies, not simply based on formal reporting lines.”

    Great. How exactly do you implement that principle? Why do I suspect that the answer involves consultants from academia, oh I don’t know, Organizational Behaviour or something?

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    Mute Cram Wood
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    Aug 30th 2017, 6:59 AM

    Forget it Martin.
    It’s not fixable.
    When you realise that ALL the people in the public and civil service ARE the unions you will understand this.
    Give it up and go back to bed.
    I have been reading articles like this for forty years, about hospital waiting lists, housing problems and so on and on.
    As the welfare society marches in step towards communism, they will vote for more and more free stuff from the government (tax payers).
    Everyone in society wants all the good things and want to watch sky tv while they are getting it.
    The more people on benefits, the more people to vote for more and greater benefits.
    It’s a vicious circle and will eventually destroy the economy and society.

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    Mute Kal Ipers
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:27 AM

    @Cram Wood: all the people in the public sector aren’t in the unions. Most if not all the mangers are not. They make decisions that the staff have to implement even if they think it is wrong. Staff member may do exactly as they are told and it can hit the media with people calling for them to be fired. The staff member didn’t do anything wrong.
    Mistake also happen along with technical issues. This happens in the public sector too. Advertisement campaign announcement may say be booked and the software might not be ready, doesn’t matter has to go live. Then you there is a fault. Who is to blame? The guy who said it wasn’t ready, programmer, project manager for underestimating or the minister that decided it had to go live?

    15
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    Mute Chris Kirk
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    Aug 30th 2017, 9:47 AM

    @Kal Ipers: Our County Council say that they are ‘Putting People First’, they don’t state however which people they are talking about as it becomes clearer that the executive is not listening.

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    Mute Kal Ipers
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    Aug 30th 2017, 12:18 PM

    @Chris Kirk: Nothing you said has anything to do with what I said.

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    Mute Andrew Brennan
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:57 AM

    The Church & State colluded in the cover-up of abuses in the Institutions – including many deaths of children.

    Church & State design an Indemnity Deal that absolves those who participated in the cover-up.

    Church & State design a Commission that partially allows abuse victims to give their testimony.

    The Commission issues a damning report, revealing the Church & State colluded in the cover-up of abuses in the Institutions – including many deaths of children.

    21
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    Mute bings
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    Aug 30th 2017, 7:56 AM

    Not only should officials in the gov, councils, hse etc be resposible for their actions. What about the thugs on the streets who are breaking into cars, houses, assault etc & getting away with it because they weren’t loved enough when they were a baby. Now they are on drugs, booze, mental issues because of it, It’s a get out of jail card for them. No one care about the person on the street who has suffered because of these thugs, They get offered nothing. The thugs get offered everythin they want. Then they don’t turn up for the help. These thugs are from all walks of life. Immigerants both legal and illegal, irish, rich, poor doesn’t matter where you live. There are thugs in your estate, appartment. your road, town, village. It’s a revolving door for the thugs regarding accountability. If they are taken to court they’re out the revolving door before the garda is finished writing up the report. I may be off the point of the article but everyone is responsible for their own actions from the top right down to the bottom.

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    Mute Melissa O'Callaghan
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    Aug 30th 2017, 8:29 AM

    It just appears that crisis management is the only response. There is homeless then build more houses. No discussion as to who and how the people are in a housing crisis. There is often a chain of bad policies that lead to individual misery of the most vulnerable in society. Instead of preventing homelessness or healthcare waiting lists there is a big emphasis on reducing the problem highlighted by statistics. Blaming individuals instead of changing the causes is the approach. Although cultural definition of white collar crime has to be discussed and addressed in the same way drink driving culture has been addressed. The poor handling of the Garda situation only serves to confirm that it is OK as long as you’re not caught out.

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    Mute Francis Devenney
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    Aug 30th 2017, 10:06 AM

    @Melissa O’Callaghan: The fact that we have a homelessness problem in a country with over a quarter of a million empty houses beggars belief

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    Mute Brown Boots
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    Aug 30th 2017, 6:51 AM

    Weird for an associate professor to write an article purely based on his opinion. So the point behind it is… The feds knew internal affairs were onto them all the time, yeah?

    15
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    Mute Brian O Reilly
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    Aug 30th 2017, 8:09 AM

    The State sets up these Commissions ,to kick the can down the road,with the reasonable hope of the citizens forgetting about the issue.Setting up a Commission with no powers to compel witnesses to give evidence ,Setting up Commissions with their own Establishment supporters from one from the fee paying Preparatory Colleges with a proven track record of giving the desired result
    Setting up Commissions with incompetents ,who are doomed to fail .the last reason because the other alternative involves the word Corruption,Perjury has to have a penalty

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    Mute helen walsh
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    Aug 31st 2017, 6:14 PM

    @Brian O Reilly: yes, but don’t expect any punishment to be meted out, unless you are a penniless shoplifter grabbing a sandwich to stem the hunger

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    Mute Catherine Sims
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    Aug 30th 2017, 9:43 AM

    So we need Goldilocks accountability then . Accountability in this country just doesn’t happen and when it’s tried everyone jumps on the gravy train to make money for themselves. Mo tribunals mo money !!! It’s a system that’s rotten to its core

    14
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    Mute Chris Kirk
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    Aug 30th 2017, 2:28 PM

    I loved it when the Troika came to Ireland, for the first time ever the government was made to feel accountable.

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    Mute David Knight
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    Aug 30th 2017, 9:26 AM

    And too many times where attempts to make criminal wrong-doers answer for their crimes, only to see them walk free and later sue the state (the people) for costs, also makes monsters. Of the people, who are sick of it. Corruption creates revolution which in turn creates monsters on both sides.

    9
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    Mute Anthony Gallagher
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    Aug 30th 2017, 11:04 AM

    WE are not talking about monsters and fools ,what we need to be talking about is well paid professionals getting it right ,duty of care ,responsibility ,leading by example.The political system has allowed this mediocre mindset to flourish, the example should come from the top down but in ireland this is delibertly not allowed to happen .what we have is our institutions and public bodies reduced to diluted semi functioning political apparatus .accountability and transparency has never seen the light of day since the foundation of the state .everything is thrown under the carpet untill it cant be hidden any more ,then we have the great delusion it is being delt with ,lolololol

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    Mute Chris Kirk
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    Aug 30th 2017, 9:31 AM

    As my grandmother used to say: ‘To many cooks spoil the broth’.!!

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    Mute helen walsh
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    Aug 31st 2017, 6:11 PM

    @Chris Kirk: as my old gran said, too many crooks spoil the broth

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    Mute @mdmak33
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    Aug 31st 2017, 2:57 PM

    Problem is no accountability is applied in ireland.how do you think corruption has taken over all state institutions.when first discovered the people involved we’re not held accountable,faced no consequences and so it contiued,and management cover it up.there is no excuses for repeated incompetence,wrong doing, as in Irish public services, institutions.

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    Mute helen walsh
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    Aug 31st 2017, 6:10 PM

    @@mdmak33: absolutely, why can’t we name a few..oh I forgot whistleblowers are persecuted

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    Mute helen walsh
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    Aug 31st 2017, 6:08 PM

    Lack of accountability runs right through Irish society and is not the sole preserve of the so called empowered, it is shared from the bottom up, top down, middle to either end. The blame game is a national trait.

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    Mute Alois Irlmaier
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    Sep 1st 2017, 12:06 AM

    The blame game is done by bullies and victims, by bullies who do not want to look at fault and by victims who bullies try to poison the well around them from passing the buck to bullying because they get away with it?
    Here in Ireland how people get along is written on all bar doors, pull and push lol. It is not what you know but whom and most are self serving and self protective as well?
    People behaviour here is based on the self first and secondly on the group and trying to find acceptance within a group and normally the glue that binds is found in the local pub?
    The thing that seems to create closeness is doing what each other is doing and having a common enemy as in the public lol. What builds groups is individuals being asked to do favours for each other not doing favours but being asked to do them, makes you think… The blame game works here very well because it is the national mentality as well as so many not knowing what they are doing but copying each other hoping it is right because of what they are told and that is the only experience they know?
    It is called bluffing it???

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