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Donal Moloney

'What a rush' Getting front and centre at the most dangerous sport event on Earth

Irish photographer Donal Moloney was the only non-Italian this year to capture the drama of the ancient Calcio Storico, ‘a mixture of soccer, rugby and attempted murder’.

CALCIO STORICO IN Florence is one of those unique Italian events that is only rivalled by Il Palio in Siena. It’s like a mixture of soccer, rugby and attempted murder. Many would agree that it is the most dangerous sport on Earth.

It’s an ancient game fiercely contested between the four districts of Florence: Santa Croce (Azzurri), Santa Maria Novella (Rossi), Santo Spirito (Bianchi) and San Giovanni (Verdi). There are 27 players on each team. They receive no money, train all year and compete for just the honour and glory. The final is held on 24 June (St John’s Day) every year at Piazza Santa Croce.

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Sports photography has always appealed to me but only on my terms. The thoughts of sitting behind a goal on a mucky rainy Irish day in the depths of winter trying to get a shot of a school camogie quarter final never baked my noodle.

Hence, I was never cut out for it and it’s a young man’s occupation. Those guys are heroes.

But Calcio Storico is something I had to see for myself. Endless emails, lots of favours and a hard neck. I work on getting the essential camera position for almost two months and just in the nick of time receive permission from the Council in Florence to attend Calcio Storico as an official photographer.

I’m feeling very privileged and sitting on the plane to Pisa I’m contemplating my next few days, striking off another wish from my photographic bucket list. Traveling alone can be both exhilarating and liberating. Time to reflect, time to be in the present, time to work at my own pace.

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Friday, the day before the first semi-final. I call to the press office at the magnificent Palazzo Vecchio to receive my pass and the drama begins. The official tells me I’ll have to be in the crowd with the journalists and not at pitchside.

They tell me they can only allocate 10 spots to photographers and in a heated moment I say “Make it 11!” He says he’ll “talk to his boss” and “see what I can do” and he’ll contact me tomorrow. He gives me his mobile number.

I’m speaking English but waving my arms and gesturing like an Italian just to get my point across. I leave the town hall feeling dejected and cheated. I’ll just have to wait and see. I don’t sleep well that evening.

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Saturday, the first semi final. My contact in the press office calls me and tells me to be at the school beside Santa Croce at noon to get my official vest. I’m the only non-Italian photographer. There’s the usual drama because the vests haven’t arrived but they give us wristbands instead. Eureka, I’m official. We will receive the Press vests tomorrow at 11am prior to the procession for the second semi-final. Nothing is ever straightforward here. It’s almost an official chaos.

Happily I meet one of the more friendly photographers. Gianni asks me if I need some help in understanding the mayhem. I make a new friend and he becomes my go-to translator and adviser. I hope to repay his kindness some day. He tells me to meet him at the beginning of the procession at Piazza Santa Novella at 2pm.

The piazza in packed with people in ancient garb and colour. It takes two hours to reach Santa Croce. Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli are just three of the greats buried at Santa Croce basilica whilst on the outside a huge sculpture of Dante oversees the battle below. The audience is then treated to an elaborate ceremony as the cavalcade enter the arena.

_AAOMO4461sm Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Finally, the teams are introduced to the fray. They’re on edge and psyching themselves up. Some slap others firmly on the face to prep them for war. The crowd go wild and slowly the cavalcade exit the field of combat. I’m rushing around shooting as much as I can before I hear someone whistle and I’m suddenly the only non-player on the pitch.

_AAOMO4218sm

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

It’s showtime. I jump over the cushioned barrier and choose a position where the sun will largely backlight the players for the entire game. It’s impossible to keep up as there’s brawls going on everywhere. The first thing that strikes me is that it’s a lot more tactical than I thought and the fighting off the ball is essential to make a pathway for the attacking player.

Medics prowl the sand looking for those who need temporary attention. Some require stretchers. I’m struggling to anticipate the plays and resign myself to use today’s adventure as a rehearsal for tomorrow. Fifty minutes later and I’m over the hoarding to grab the aftermath. What a rush. I leave on a high and already excited to return more educated for tomorrow’s game.

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Random drug testing is now taken very seriously I’m told. A few years back they called out the names after a game to be tested. One guy received a phone call shortly after stating that he was pregnant or more likely, his girlfriend was.

Sunday, second semi-final. Today the Bianchi play the Verde. They are segregated at either end of the arena. The stench of smoke flares momentarily fill the air and I can barely see the fans at either end. They’re baying for blood. The sound of flesh beating flesh resembles a butcher’s hand slapping a side of beef. Two guys clash right beside me and I have to pull back from the cushioned barrier to avoid getting mashed.

The final whistle sounds and Verde win 9 and a half to 5. I jump the barrier to capture the blood, sweat, tears and joy of the gladiators. I leave the piazza with my heart still thumping from the events I have been privileged to witness. A table for one and a well deserved glass of Brunello di Montalcino awaits.

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Donal Moloney Donal Moloney

Donal Moloney  is an award-winning photographer and videographer. See his work at DonalMoloney.com and on Facebook

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    Mute D
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:30 PM

    Leo finishing second in his own constituency. Biblical.

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    Mute Carl
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:32 PM

    @D: delighted for him

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    Mute Laughable
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:54 PM

    @Carl: Martin second to SF in Cork too hahahahaha

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    Mute The Risen
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:07 PM

    @D: Seats aside. Leo and Mehole bot lost this election. Leo by hemorrhaging support and Mehole for missing the open goal left as a result. Mary Lou knocked it out of the park.

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    Mute Peter Cavey
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:33 AM

    @D: it’s been savaging today for FG & FG.. I think it’s only now they’ve realised just how off the mark they were when it comes to the Irish electoral. They were in a bubble. The days of of “I vote FFG because my parents do” is over. Not only do they have to reflect on reality but they have to face their financial backers. I can only imagine it’s like winning the lotto only to realize you are looking at last week’s ticket.

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    Mute Ciarán Seosamh
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:33 PM

    Nice to see a break from the status quo.

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    Mute Peter Hughes
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    Feb 9th 2020, 8:19 PM

    @Ciarán Seosamh: I’m fearful it will make no difference because the damage FFG have done to all areas is massive and fixing anything with our horrific debt levels will be some doing.

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    Mute Justin Gillespie
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:52 PM

    @Peter Hughes: Getting the excuses in early Peter!!

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    Mute Gerard Cummins
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:49 PM

    Mr ROSS , guess he’s sorry now he went over the top on his mission to drive motorist to distraction and fast track his bailout of the FAI without getting to the bottom of what JD did with tax payers money.

    211
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    Mute Fergus O'Connor
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:55 PM

    Martin and Coveney both finishing behind the Sinn Féin candidate in their own constituency is massive.

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    Mute wormtubes
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:50 PM

    @Fergus O’Connor: it’s incredible and fair play to him.. However ya have to remember he’s the only sein fein head in there where ff will elect 2 and the total fg votes will also surpass him.

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    Mute The Risen
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:02 PM

    OUTSTANDING showing for SF. The writings on the wall now for FF/FG, because if there’s another election SF will simply run extra candidates and win the most seats…

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    Mute Lily Martin
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    Feb 9th 2020, 6:41 PM

    @The Risen: That depends on how they perform in government if given the opportunity now. Best of luck to them

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    Mute 2thFairy
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:00 PM

    @Lily Martin: all we can do now is watch wait and wish them luck. We are as divided as what is left and right of us.

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    Mute Sequoia
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:36 PM

    Yesterday: We will never form a government with Sinn Féin.

    Today: that was then & this is now. We have to consider what’s best for the country.

    Not a fan of SF by any means but they really upset the apple-cart. Should really have run more candidates, but I suppose there’s always next time, if they don’t screw this one up).

    Going to be an interesting few years ahead in politics.

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    Mute Lapsy Pa
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:00 PM

    It’s ok to say build houses , but who’s going to build them , where can it be affordable to build them and who’s going to pay for them ? People won’t accept the houses offered to them and won’t try for a better job just so they can get one for next to nothing . This is complete fanciful Robin Hood nonsense , you can’t be waiting for a government to house you , it’s your responsibility to put a roof over your head !

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    Mute Mark
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:12 PM

    @Lapsy Pa: Assuming you are a taxpayer, you along with all other tax payers, will pay…. Are you really that stupid?

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    Mute Paul O'Sullivan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:13 PM

    @Lapsy Pa: it should be a constitutional right to be housed.

    But let’s do some maths, the most of a decent family home in Ireland is 250k to 350k which are totally overpriced and out of reach for the average PAYE worker. Private Rents are almost double what they were 10 years ago.

    My work as a researcher takes me to the UK fairly regularly and my rent in Dublin is 1600 pm in the UK in Manchester the same size apartment would be 700 pm max

    The prize of your average house in greater Manchester would be about £80,000 stg

    My pay is the same so it is better value for me to go and live and work in Manchester where work takes me there regularly because I source it there.

    It is ridiculous the way housing and rents have gone in Ireland… Land developers and construction are as much to blame as greedy landlords.

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    Mute Lapsy Pa
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:18 PM

    @Lapsy Pa: it’s your constitutional right to earn a living , so who’s livelihood and constitutional right are you going to take from ? It is really that simple

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    Mute Lapsy Pa
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:24 PM

    @Lapsy Pa:there’s a 4 bed house beside me that didn’t sell for 130,000 . it’s simply supply and demand and your “average “ is based on premium properties in Dublin , cork etc . Nobody ripping you off at all .

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    Mute LittleBee
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    Feb 9th 2020, 9:47 PM

    @Paul O’Sullivan: add council tax water rates in and out and the lower wage in the UK the cost of living is about the same. The north of England is also far cheaper than the south where the cost of housing can be astronomical. A bit like here you when you consider the Midlands.

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    Mute LittleBee
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:20 PM

    @Lapsy Pa: cool plan , and in this fantasy world where the entire population takes responsibility gets a third level education to put a roof over their head, theres no unemployment, no disability, no mental health issues , no low IQs or learning disabilities, addictions or domestic violence I just want to know one thing. Who the hell is going to serve me my latte and smashed avocado?

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    Mute Lapsy Pa
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:29 PM

    @Lapsy Pa: it’s not a fantasy world where there is no unemployment , that’s now . The young , old and sick are for the most part looked after and would have greater resources allocated to them without the redistribution of wealth because someone wants an apartment in Dublin city center . Multinationals , civil service and indigenous companies are creating property price and rent increases because they’re providing ridiculously well paid jobs . Really simple .

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    Mute Nostredamus Rebooted
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:33 PM

    Tá ár lá tagtha

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    Mute Paul O'Sullivan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:01 PM

    Looks like FF/SF government with a bit of support from the greens.. Micheal is already doing a u-turn.

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    Mute For Goodness Sake
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:17 PM

    @Paul O’Sullivan: you guess wrong

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    Mute Joe
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    Feb 9th 2020, 8:05 PM

    SF are screwed now! There not going to have a clue how to do anything if they’re in govt. hopefully this will be the end of them!
    Fg & Fg just merge and push these lads back out!!

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    Mute Shay Redmond.
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:18 PM

    @Joe: Are you serious. Do you even live in this country. Health a disaster, Record Homelessness,
    Taxes to ablivion. Incompetent ministers propped up by FF. We owe our shirts to EU. You’re happy with that? Really? You my friend are a sandwich short of a picnic.

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    Mute Danny Flynn
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:01 PM

    @Joe: ff still getting scre#w#d in Dublin. The dubs don’t forget

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    Mute 2thFairy
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:02 PM

    @Shay Redmond.: health is a poisoned chalice for all parties. No one is going to do any better or any worse.

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    Mute Shay Redmond.
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:37 PM

    @2thFairy: we’ll see.

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    Mute Paddy Whelan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:14 PM

    Yup the shinners

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    Mute Mick.
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    Feb 9th 2020, 9:44 PM

    If they must be part the next Government then it’s only right that they get the Ministries that they were the most vocal about. Give them Health, Housing, Social Welfare. And see if they can fix them as they claimed they would.

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    Mute Damian Moylan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:31 PM

    @Mick.: the sf manifesto states 6.5bln to build 100k homes if im not mistaken. how do you build a house for 65k?

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    Mute Mick.
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:26 AM

    @Mick.: That would be the SF Minister for Housings problem to solve. Just as the problems with the Health Service would be and Social Welfare. They were very vocal on telling the Electorate that they were the party that could fix them, so let’s see if they can. And if they can’t they don’t get to blame anyone else.

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    Mute Ciaran McCrink
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:12 PM

    @Mick.: Ye definitely could!! No bother!! Purchasing power would be through the roof for a start. Semi-D, 65k, no bother!

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    Mute Tom o brien
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    Feb 9th 2020, 7:23 PM

    Is the Denis o brien /larry goodman independent news and media going to disband

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    Mute colm mc sweeney
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:41 PM

    Micheàl , Leo , Coveney , Harris all beat by Sinn Fein. Unheard of but there yea go!!! The people are sick of the same. Change is what they want .
    Burton gone…..tG. omG this is a wind of change alright!

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    Mute Ryan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 7:50 PM

    @colm mc sweeney: not just the same but very often a downward slope

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    Mute Clyde
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:33 AM

    @colm mc sweeney: The people are sick of the same? Roughly 25% voted for SF. 75% didn’t. That’s maths for you.

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    Mute Padraic O Sullivan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:45 PM

    Whoever voted Harris back in, you suck.
    Signed: the rest of us.

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    Mute Laughable
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:53 PM

    @Padraic O Sullivan: Having spent 15 hours in A&E last year for a simple X-ray I have to agree with you.

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    Mute Aire Dezamba
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:10 PM

    @Padraic O Sullivan: just to say, Harris had no prior experience to run a multi-billion Dept of Health. He might never have been inside a hospital before. He was also very young and inexperienced. So he should never have been put in this position. Crazy decision on FG’s part and this is the problem…..we are electing unqualified inexperienced TD’s and they simply don’t have the managerial and life skills for these positions.

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    Mute Padraic O Sullivan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:22 PM

    @Aire Dezamba: I know that the local parish newsletter is looking for gopher. That may suit him.

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    Mute Ryan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 6:02 PM

    @Padraic O Sullivan: of all the people, Harris has to go

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    Mute Ryan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 6:06 PM

    @Padraic O Sullivan: Harris is the main one that had to go

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    Mute Ann Reddin
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:23 PM

    @Padraic O Sullivan: He started his political career working in Francis Fitgerald’s office as the runner…did the photocopying, got the coffees, sent on errands. And he went from that to being electet and given the job as a junior minister and a short couple of years after that…minister for health. He didn’t even finish university, he doesn’t have a degree. Like WTF!!!

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    Mute Ordinary lad
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    Feb 9th 2020, 9:28 PM

    Sadly, the risk of a terrorist attricities in our cities has just increased by 10,000%.

    Protestant hard men are unlikely to let a puppet political party [SF -IRA] gain control of the south. This is a massive game-changer and I would fully expect them to be uneasy and take pre-emptive strikes.

    SF- IRA have no interest in health, housing etc. Their real sectarian interest is in an United Ireland. This will only cause civil strife & mayhem on a level we haven’t seen before. The naive voting publin will ahve sleepwalk into this.

    Wolf in sheep’s clothing…..

    Play with fire – and you’ll inevitably get burnt

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    Mute Harry Corry
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:12 PM

    @Ordinary lad: such a pathetic and desperate post. I assume you’ll be emigrating now with your prediction of Armageddon? I’m glad small minded people like you are a tiny minority.

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    Mute Keith O Hanlon
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:49 PM

    @Harry Corry: well said Harry he must be crying into his pillow god bless him

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    Mute Ben Hogan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:02 PM

    @Ordinary lad: well said. SF are a disgrace of a party !

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    Mute 2thFairy
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:09 PM

    @Ben Hogan: yes they are an absolute disgrace but we’re stuck with them. Interesting times and I’m looking forward to seeing how they fare. Let’s hope they can do all they said. I doubt they will but now it’s their turn. Tbf health is not a barometer of success or failure. No party has been able to fix it.

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    Mute Sam Greene
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:09 AM

    @Ordinary lad: u are warped, u really are.

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    Mute Trevor W
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    Feb 10th 2020, 6:19 AM

    @2thFairy: well it kind of is. If you fix health the party will reap rewards.

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    Mute 2thFairy
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    Feb 10th 2020, 7:38 AM

    @Trevor W: my point is that it can’t be fixed

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    Mute Ciaran McCrink
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:16 PM

    @Ordinary lad: LOL–Get yourself ready, 32 county Ireland Utopia is just around the corner and the Brits will finally be out the gate!!

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    Mute Joe
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    Feb 9th 2020, 8:02 PM

    Hopefully Shinners have to negotiate with the big boys and all of the irresponsible and populist policies are shown for what they are and then we all vote again and a non-paramilitary gets in!

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    Mute Adam J
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:00 PM

    @Joe: Poor Joe, extremely put out by the results

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    Mute John Fairclough
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:21 PM

    @Joe: build a bridge and get under it

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    Mute Sam Greene
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:03 AM

    @Joe: omg do u ever stop. Doing a Leo and totally disrespecting the huge amount of people who voted SF. Get over it.

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    Mute Tom o brien
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    Feb 9th 2020, 7:29 PM

    This is the equivilant of mayo winning Sam

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    Mute Porter Mechanic
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    Feb 9th 2020, 5:31 PM

    Helen McEntee keeps her seat, jesus wept she has been stealing a living with her Brexit scripted waffle

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    Mute Francis Barden
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    Feb 9th 2020, 8:25 PM

    Just goes to show if you don’t change the people will do it for you, both FF ,FG, are relics of the past with still the same politics of long ago, but be aware that SF can promise what they want but they have never had to prove anything,,a

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    Mute 2thFairy
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:12 PM

    @Francis Barden: true, and they didn’t think they’d have to prove themselves this time either. But it’s time for them to prove the likes of me wrong. I honestly hope they do, I’m just not betting the house on it.

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    Mute Laughable
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    Feb 9th 2020, 4:52 PM

    My prediction.
    FF do a U turn and we get a FF SF Green coalition.
    Or a caretaker government of FF FG SF for a few months to a year and we vote again.

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    Mute Stephen
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    Feb 9th 2020, 7:37 PM

    Result!

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    Mute Ben Hogan
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:01 PM

    Absolutely horrible to see SF get so many votes today. It was very tough to see the great FG who have done so much for us lose so many seats. I don’t see how anyone in the right mind could vote for SF.

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    Mute Trevor W
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    Feb 10th 2020, 6:20 AM

    @Ben Hogan: hahaha. How you’re not in the central mental hospital is beyond me.

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    Mute Derek Lyster
    Favourite Derek Lyster
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    Feb 10th 2020, 7:19 AM

    @Ben Hogan: Are you that blind? The “great” FG hace been in decline ever since they took power. They have been found out time and time again and are still in denial about it.

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    Mute Ciaran McCrink
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:06 PM

    Right well maybe just take a look at their core policies and you will very easily see how people in vastly increasing numbers are supporting the Sinn Fein way forward!!

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    Mute John Moloney
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    Feb 9th 2020, 8:06 PM

    Fianna fail and sinn fein next government no doubt

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    Mute Just Some Guy
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    Feb 9th 2020, 8:24 PM

    @John Moloney:

    God help us all with those two in charge

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    Mute Georges Dessaint
    Favourite Georges Dessaint
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:54 PM

    @John Moloney: and SF claiming they are different from FG/FF. They will probably accept to govern with them for the power. What a change in politics !! They make fool of people if they do that

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    Mute Austin Doyle
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:50 PM

    Why have the Journal closed the comments section on Joan Burton losing her seat ??

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    Mute Irisheyes
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:18 PM

    When a party takes a pay cut or reduces their pensions or increases their pensionable age. Only then will I have faith that any party or politician has the country’s best interests at heart. Until then they are all feathering their own nests and don’t care about the normal joe.

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    Mute Paul Brierley
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:45 PM

    Joan Burton sold out the deferred pensioners in Aer Lingus!

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    Mute Ross
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:46 PM

    Have to say, I’ve been enjoying the election coverage on virgin media 1

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    Mute Phil West
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    Feb 9th 2020, 10:47 PM

    As a former Irish Senator said ‘Things fall apart, the centre cannot hold’ and then Echo & the Bunny men ‘Bring on the dancing… Bring on the new messiah’.

    A new breed of looney on the Irish stage.

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    Mute Sam Greene
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    Feb 10th 2020, 12:06 AM

    I voted SF and then I voted Left. I voted this way as I dont want FFFG to be in Government.
    If SF go into coalition with FF alot of people will feel betrayed, including me.

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    Mute Trevor W
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    Feb 10th 2020, 6:22 AM

    @Sam Greene: betrayed? From what exactly? Their job is to govern and they won’t have a majority. What do you expect them to do?

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    Mute Sam Greene
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    Feb 10th 2020, 1:58 PM

    @Trevor W: not govern with FF. Maybe I expect that.

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    Mute Marc Quinn
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    Feb 9th 2020, 9:22 PM

    But he has nits!!!

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    Mute Ann Reddin
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    Feb 9th 2020, 11:19 PM

    I just want to say well done and congratulations to Reada Cronin, TD who used to be a regular here in the comments section.

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