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Column How Ireland helped bring wine to the world

Think wine is relatively new to Ireland? That’s understandable – but you’re very wrong, writes Susan Boyle.

Susan Boyle is the creator of A Wine Goose Chase at ABSOLUT Fringe 2012.

AT A WINE tasting recently, I over heard someone say they were around when wine first came to Ireland! It didn’t surprise me. There is an impression that there was no wine or wine drinking culture in Ireland before Blue Nun and Mateus Rose arrived on these shores.

The past 200 years or so haven’t been Ireland’s finest wine days.  There were other things to worry about, like surviving famine and forging a shiny new republic. It wasn’t until commercial wine companies began marketing to Ireland in the 1960s that most people re-acquired a taste for wine. The astonishing truth is Ireland has 2,000 years of wine history, which is often overlooked.

The Celts can be credited with first bringing wine to Ireland. Shards of wine-stained pottery have been found dating back to Celtic times. It is thought that their stone carvings in Newgrange were inspired by designs copied from Greek wine pots.  They were renowned for their culture of feasting.  Their ways were adopted quickly. The Celts were boat builders and set about established good trade routes between Ireland and continental Europe. By the time Christianity came to Ireland, the Irish were already knowledgeable wine drinkers – and now they had religious reasons to drink wine!

But as anyone who’s looked out a window this summer can tell, Ireland doesn’t have a grape growing climate.  To ensure a steady supply of wine to Ireland,  the Irish had to become part of the wine trade from the roots up.

Patron saints

Ireland had a sophisticated monastic education system.  Monks were schooled aspects of farming and crop cultivation along side scripture and penmanship. Many of them travelled to Europe and established vineyards. Some of the most successful even ended up as wine saints! St Fiachra is the patron saint of gardeners, a skill honed in the vineyards of France. The wine growing region named after him is the most densely planted commune in the country.  St Killian planted vineyards in the Main Valley in Germany where he is the patron saint of winegrowers. St Fridolin is the patron St of Alsace and established the wine industry in Switzerland.

Ancient Ireland was awash with wine: Irish people were making wine in other parts of Europe and shipping it back home.  But, the golden age of Ireland and wine was yet to come!

In the 17th century a Dutch engineer drained much of the swampy land in Bordeaux, revealing some of the most perfect wine growing terroir in the world. At the same time, members of more than 200 Irish families, fleeing political turmoil in Ireland, settled in Bordeaux and transformed the wine industry. These people are known as the ‘Wine Geese’. In Bordeaux their legacy is; fourteen chateaux, ten streets, two wine communes and one public monument bearing Irish names. These Bordeaux wines have influenced wine making across the globe.

Moreover, it’s a pretty safe bet that wherever wine is being made, there’s an Irish hand in it.  An Irish man wrote the first account of vines and wine making in North America. There are Irish winemakers in Australia, South Africa, and South America.

It’s extraordinary that people from a damp little Island that can’t even grow grapes have had such a influence on the global wine industry. The Irish are a tenacious people;  farmers at heart. If you can grow potatoes, why not grow vines? And as grapes need 100 days of sunshine to ripen, it must be much more pleasant to be a farmer where it sunny, than where it is wet!

Susan Boyle stages A Wine Goose Chase at La Ruelle Wine Bar (just off Dawson St, Dublin 2) as part of ABSOLUT Fringe 2012. For further details visit fringefest.com or phone 1850 374 643.

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    Mute Fergal Mangan
    Favourite Fergal Mangan
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    Sep 8th 2012, 7:26 PM

    Something something buckfast something else the government, bloody trapattoni.

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    Mute New totwit
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    Sep 8th 2012, 7:31 PM

    Susan Boyle has some talent!

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    Mute David O Connor
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    Sep 8th 2012, 7:50 PM

    I dreamed a dream….

    42
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    Mute Kerry Man
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    Sep 8th 2012, 7:24 PM

    Ireland imported more Port and Claret than England in 1800.(reflecting our relative affluence) The act of Union took away our economic independance, higher tariffs imposed on our exports favouring English produce, underming our economy and ultimately leading to our economic demise which we only began to recover from in the 1990s. The economic damage done created many of the conditions which made the famine as bad as it was.

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    Mute Jason Bourne
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    Sep 9th 2012, 2:56 AM

    We never had economic independence

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    Mute Vinnie Mulvihill
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    Sep 8th 2012, 7:14 PM

    of course we are well up in the wine industry we Irish are known for our expertise in the alcoholic beverage department

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    Mute Blathín Sullivan
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    Sep 8th 2012, 11:34 PM

    They say one is never more than five feet from a rat but in Ireland one is never more than five feet from an eejit of a leprechaun!

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    Mute Felim O'Neill
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    Sep 8th 2012, 10:29 PM

    One correction. Newgrange dates from 3200 BC. Older than the Pyramids in fact. Earliest Celtic tribes date from ~800-400 BC (Hallstadt Culture Austria). Celts reached Ireland (and Britain) over several waves (but not invasions) starting 300 BC-ish many different small groups possibly forced out of Continental Europe due to other migrations from the East. So, the Celts did not build Newgrange nor did they build Stonehenge. Celts could possibly have added inscriptions and used these monuments for purposes other than originally intended (originally were calendars).
    Makes me laugh to see modern Celtic Druids gather at these places. Anachronistic to say the least.

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    Mute Shane Cafferty
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    Sep 9th 2012, 12:29 AM

    You seem like great craic!

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    Mute Ryan Ó Giobúin
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    Sep 8th 2012, 8:27 PM

    Galway grew as a city thanks mostly to the trade of wine with Spain and other countries. Areas of the city like Spanish Arch and the Latin Quarter are reminders of this very profitable trade between wine producing countries and the Tribes of Galway, making Galway the chief supplier of wine for Ireland until the arrival of Cromwell saw a demise in the trade.

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    Mute Blathín Sullivan
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    Sep 8th 2012, 11:42 PM

    The name “Latin Quarter” is a recent invention of local marketeers. The Galweigians in response have renamed it the “Latrine Quarter” because of the prevalence of bush drinkers in the area. The rest of your post is spot on though!

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    Mute Tony Stanley
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    Sep 8th 2012, 7:57 PM

    Subo and wine….dangerous mix!

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    Mute Kevin Carroll
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    Sep 8th 2012, 11:03 PM

    The celts didn’t build Newgrange!!!!!!! Newgrange was about 3,000 years old when they came to these shores.

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    Mute Jarlath Conefrey
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    Sep 8th 2012, 8:54 PM

    Patron saint of winegrowers from Mullagh, Co. Cavan!

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    Mute John Mcgooner
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    Sep 8th 2012, 9:31 PM

    There is a museum dedicated to the wine geese in kinsale castle. There is also the order of the wine geese to which my late uncle, aunt and cousin have been inducted ( the Lagan family from Tyrone and Cork who founded Xanadu wines of Margaret River, Western Australia ) along with notable names like Hennessy, McGuigan etc

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    Mute Susan Duffy
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    Sep 8th 2012, 9:16 PM

    Mmmm love a nice chilled white myself! Preferably French, Spanish, or italian

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    Mute Shane Cafferty
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    Sep 9th 2012, 12:28 AM

    Just give me a half bottle of blue nun!

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    Mute Buckwheat MacMillan
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    Sep 9th 2012, 8:10 AM

    Or black tower

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    Mute Pádraig O'hEidhin
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    Sep 8th 2012, 10:25 PM

    Belting alcoholics the lot of us.

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    Mute Lamb
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    Sep 9th 2012, 11:14 AM

    Go to Bordeaux and you’ll see how big the Irish were in wine production where you come across street names like Rue Sullivan and Rue Reilly.

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    Mute Kevin L Wearen
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    Oct 9th 2012, 9:13 PM

    It’s true.

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    Mute Kevin L Wearen
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    Sep 27th 2012, 2:19 PM

    wine production is alive and well in Lusk Co.Dublin. Luska Wine you should Rush to purchase this product?

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    Mute Margaret Gallery
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    Sep 15th 2012, 7:43 PM

    ‎1835 July 23 Advertisement
    Edward Gallery Importer of Wines, Teas etc. Jail St. Ennis begs leave to announce to the public that he is just unpacking a few cases of rare and select wines, consisting of Claret, Champagne, Barsac, Oremiac, Fontignac, Muscat and East India Sherry, Old Convent Sherry, bottled in Spain, of extreme age and uncommon quality; none of it has been ever sent to this country before. If these wines should not give unqualified satisfaction, they shall be freely taken back – for such are the terms upon which Gallery has procured them from the Importer. His establishment is as usual supplied with Prime Old Port and Sherry of exquisite flavour and quality. E.G. has made a reduction on the price of TEAS in order to give the public the benefit of the fall at the last sales of the East India Company. Prime Dublin Whiskey engaged four years old. Ennis July 22 1835
    (my gt gt grandfather.. wish we still had some of that wine)

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