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New Year’s Eve in Bab Touma, Damascus. Hannah McCarthy

Syrians celebrate new year without Assad, as leading rebel group shifts to governing fractured country

Journalist Hannah McCarthy travelled to Syria on New Year’s Eve to observe the ‘festival atmosphere’, as many took to the streets to celebrate.

In Beirut, a day before I left for Damascus, I had coffee with a Syrian friend who works at a coffee shop in Gemmayzeh in East Beirut.

The area had been left untouched by the Israeli air strikes that levelled so much of the southern suburbs of the city but the economic tail-spin of the war between Israel and Hezbollah had still been felt here.

After months of little foot traffic on the usually busy thoroughfare in Gemmayzeh, the coffee shop was closing down and my friend was going to have to look for another job.

Would he return to Syria, I asked. It’s not that simple, he said. He had a life in Beirut: an apartment, a dog and a girlfriend, and if he crossed the border into Syria he would have difficulty returning on a Syrian passport.

Of course, he was happy that Assad had fallen, but returning to Syria was not a straightforward decision for the millions of Syrians who had sought refuge from the brutal regime of Bashar al-Assad.

14 years of civil war is a long time, 53 years of the Assad family’s rule even longer.

IMG_1226 Torn posters of Bashar al-Assad, who fled Syria in December. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

My friend wasn’t religious and abhorred violence. His refusal to pick up a gun left him with little choice but to leave Syria or face lengthy military conscription in the Syrian army. But he said he was willing to give Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS), the Islamist rebel group that overthrew Assad in December, a chance and hoped that Ahmad al-Sharaa would be “smart”.

“Syria needs security,” he said. “That is the most important thing. Everything else comes after but first we need an end to violence.”

As I crossed into Syria on New Year’s Eve, I saw the return of Syrian officials to the border control offices that had been left deserted since 8 December. I grumbled as I waited nearly two hours for an entry stamp, but, in truth, it was a sign that the HTS regime was trying to restore order after a tumultuous few weeks.

IMG_1215 Bullet casings by the Syrian-Lebanese border. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

Also waiting to enter was Abdullah, who was visiting Syria from the Netherlands for the first time in 14 years, with his father. “I have lots of family waiting for me in Damascus,” he said excitedly.

On the road into Damascus, posters of Assad had been torn down and a Syrian army tank still lay deserted on the main highway.

In the main square of Bab Touma in the old city of Damascus, a festival atmosphere had taken hold. The neighbourhood lies in the city’s Christian quarter and was decorated with Christmas trees, with Santa Clauses selling flashing balloons and children asking their parents for candy floss.

9F6A3407 Syrians pose with flags depicting rebel fighters on new Year's Eve in Bob Touma, Damascus. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

Syrians sang anti-Assad chants and posed for photos in front of large screens displaying the rebel’s Syrian flag which replaced the traditional red with green.

9F6A3402 Dozens took to the streets of Damascus to ring in the New Year, including Sidr (pictured) and her sister. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

Among the revellers were Syrians visiting from Lebanon where they had sought refuge when the civil war broke out. Sidr and her sister had travelled from Akkar in northern Lebanon for New Year’s Eve. Draped in the rebel’s Syrian flag and holding a rose, Sidr said this was her first time in her home country in 15 years.

9F6A3430 Destroyed police cars outside a police station in Damascus, which is now operated by rebel fighters. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

In front of the police station on the square, several crashed police cars with smashed windows were parked. The station is now manned by rebels in military fatigues with Kalashnikovs slung across their bodies. Two of the rebels occasionally toured through the crowds celebrating in Bab Touma square but mostly they surveilled the revellers from the station.

9F6A3421 Rebel fighters patrolled the streets while celebrations took place across the Syrian capital. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

In December, an agreement was reached for the rebel factions to become part of Syria’s Defence Ministry, while soldiers who defected from the Syrian army would also be incorporated into the country’s formal military structure.

The Kurdish-led and US-backed Syrian Democratic forces in northern eastern Syria have not yet signed up to the deal, a sign of the difficult year Syria could have as what type of post-Assad country will be formed comes into focus.

9F6A3367 Santa Claus, balloons and candy floss were on offer for families attending the celebrations. Hannah McCarthy Hannah McCarthy

HTS leader Ahmed Sharaa has said he is not interested in new conflicts and in 2025 will be embarking on a diplomatic mission to convince Western officials to remove the sanctions imposed on Syria under the Assad regime.

The leader has said it will take a year for Syrians to see real change and that he expects it to take up to four years to draft a new constitution and hold elections. Syria is a Sunni Muslim majority country, but with several sizeable minority ethnic and religious groups, as well as a significant secular base.

Sharaa says he wants Syria’s constitutional arrangement to ensure all groups can participate in government, but has said it should not be based on a quota system, similar to what has been used in Lebanon and Iraq (as well as Northern Ireland). This quota system doles out ministries and state positions based on party or sectarians affiliations and Sharaa has said these models have resulted in chronic state paralysis and a failure to deliver even basic needs.

On New Year’s Eve, the battle-hardened rebel leader met in Damascus with senior clerics from Syria’s Christian minorities, whose numbers dwindled sharply during the civil war. A few days earlier, hundreds of protestors had taken to the streets in Damascus including in Bab Touma to demonstrate against the burning of a Christmas tree in Hama and chanted “we will sacrifice our souls for our cross.” Syria’s new Islamic leadership wil face a new type of battle in 2025 to reassure and unite all of Syria.

Meanwhile, many displaced Syrians are returning to survey the wreckage of their homes, with questions of what happened to their loved ones at the hands of the Assad regime. Wafa Moustafa left Syria after her father, Ali, was forcibly disappeared during the Syrian uprising in 2013.

At a gathering in Damascus where Syrians held posters of their missing loved ones, Moustafa said: “Our search for our loved ones did not stop yet. It will not end until we find the full truth of what happened to them. We accept nothing less than knowing all details related to what happened to them, who is responsible for their detention? Who tortured them? If they were killed, unfortunately, who killed them? And where they were buried.”

Hannah McCarthy is a journalist based in Beirut.

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    Mute 087 bed
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    Apr 4th 2025, 12:41 AM

    If only there was a rainy day fund with millions of euro in it we could use.

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    Mute Charles Okumbu
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    Apr 4th 2025, 12:54 AM

    @087 bed: If only the government didn’t give 7 billion a year to foreigners and NGOs.

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    Mute Del Ray
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    Apr 4th 2025, 6:07 AM

    @087 bed: Thanks to economic competence we do have such a fund!

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    Mute Ethan Gannon
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    Apr 4th 2025, 6:48 AM

    @Del Ray: economic competence or a tax haven scheme?

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    Mute Dominic Leleu
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    Apr 4th 2025, 7:06 AM

    @Charles Okumbu: agreed

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    Mute Rian O'Sullivan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:21 AM

    @Charles Okumbu: Okumbu certainly sounds like a foreign name to me.

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    Mute Charles Okumbu
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:36 AM

    @Rian O’Sullivan: I work

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    Mute Rian O'Sullivan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:58 AM

    @Charles Okumbu: Also taking up housing an Irish person requires.

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    Mute Charles Okumbu
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    Apr 4th 2025, 9:31 AM

    @Rian O’Sullivan: I’m going back to Nigeria in 6 months. Too expensive here.

    47
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    Mute Darius Guppy
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    Apr 4th 2025, 9:48 AM

    @Rian O’Sullivan: so, should an Irish person who will not work, draws benefits be given housing ahead of a migrant who does work? Me, I am giving it to the migrant who contributes all day long.

    15
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    Mute Rian O'Sullivan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 9:49 AM

    @Charles Okumbu: Excellent news safe trip home.

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    Mute Rian O'Sullivan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 9:50 AM

    @Darius Guppy: No there should be no free housing given out full stop be it to Irish or foreign.

    15
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    Mute Thesaltyurchin
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:25 AM

    @Rian O’Sullivan: Really there are no borders, but you don’t need to be so afraid Rian

    41
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    Mute barry lyons
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    Apr 4th 2025, 11:04 AM

    @087 bed:

    We do not have a rainy day fund

    Ireland’s national debt one of the highest in the world at €42,000 per person
    By 2030, the Irish state will need an additional €8b a year relative to just before the pandemic to maintain current service levels across areas like healthcare and pensions.
    1.24pm, 21 Feb 2024
    34.4k
    144
    IRELAND HAS ONE of the highest gross public debt levels in the world according to figures released by the Department of Finance today, at just over €42,000 per person.

    At the end of last year public debt in Ireland is estimated at €223b, down from €236b at the end of 2021 but around €20b higher than just before the pandemic.

    2
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    Mute barry lyons
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    Apr 4th 2025, 11:06 AM

    @087 bed: apple tax is well gone

    Ireland’s national debt one of the highest in the world at €42,000 per person
    By 2030, the Irish state will need an additional €8b a year relative to just before the pandemic to maintain current service levels across areas like healthcare and pensions.
    1.24pm, 21 Feb 2024
    34.4k
    144
    IRELAND HAS ONE of the highest gross public debt levels in the world according to figures released by the Department of Finance today, at just over €42,000 per person.

    At the end of last year public debt in Ireland is estimated at €223b, down from €236b at the end of 2021 but around €20b higher than just before the pandemic.

    1
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    Mute Dan The Man
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    Apr 4th 2025, 3:31 AM

    If only our tax money didn’t have to fix Ukrainian BMW cars we might have money instead for our disadvantaged Irish schools!

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    Mute Dominic Leleu
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    Apr 4th 2025, 7:18 AM

    @Dan The Man: they do love the German cars all right

    59
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    Mute Thesaltyurchin
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:16 AM

    @Dan The Man: If only we could finish the worlds most expensive building…. for the children like

    39
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    Mute KO
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    Apr 4th 2025, 1:29 AM

    This was known well before now,hidden just like the homeless figure, the lying of number of houses,the increased on private health, electricity, the operations preformed on children who didn’t need,and not on the ones who still waiting after promises made.
    Ireland seriously needs to stop with wastage and with immediate effect stop funding NGOs ..at very least streamline why so many for homeless? Migrants, energy, etc, some with only 4 on staff on a salary of 100k ..
    If an audit was done on every single homeless charity/ NGO and checked wages and expenses, and checked what those expenses used for…all the government grants and donations there would be serious questions to answer and justify that expenditure and homeless figure still increasing …

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    Mute Maire Hicks
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    Apr 4th 2025, 2:19 AM

    @KO: the swines would still get away lightly just look at dee forbes ffs..

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    Mute KO
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:50 AM

    @Maire Hicks: How could we forget, yet that is what they hope for.!

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    Mute Maire Hicks
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    Apr 4th 2025, 5:30 PM

    @KO: Absolutely and don’t forget.. lessons will be learned yadda, yadda yadda, it’s ridiculous.

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    Mute Ichabod Crane
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    Apr 4th 2025, 4:10 AM

    Tell the government your school is an IPAC center and watch as the millions roll in.

    122
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    Mute SOCOMJON
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:36 AM

    @Ichabod Crane: Tell the government you identify as an ipas centre

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    Mute Sarah O'Sullivan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 7:18 AM

    The fact that schools often have to ask parents to bake buns and cakes so that they can be sold back to the same parents in order to raise money for basics such as teaching resources illustrates just how farsical funding in the education sector is in this country.

    107
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    Mute Fergus O'Donnell
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    Apr 4th 2025, 1:21 AM

    The rich get richer, the poor get poorer. FFG strategy.

    103
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    Mute KTH
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    Apr 4th 2025, 3:32 AM

    Remember, before the election, we were told the opposition were “the bogey men” who’d ruin the country if they got into power…
    The people voted FFG back in, again…
    And now we’re being drip fed the bad news by FFG that the country is already in ruins.

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    Mute giles wolohan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 4:49 AM

    The people voted for this so that’s what you get wait till the economic storm hits our government still won’t care they will still get the big wage and us peasants will be thrown the crumbs while our government look after war torn countries and people who are bleeding this country dry we are on a downward spiral and it will be worse than 2007/8

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    Mute Fran Ken
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    Apr 4th 2025, 9:03 AM

    @giles wolohan: Well done Giles. You’ve just demonstrated why we need to spend more on education. Grammar, punctuation, oh dear!

    1
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    Mute giles wolohan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:25 AM

    @Fran Ken: ah would you grow a life

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    Mute Fran Ken
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    Apr 4th 2025, 11:33 AM

    @giles wolohan: I work with immigrants who have better writing skills than Irish people. This is despite the fact that English is not their first language. You should be embarrassed.

    1
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    Mute giles wolohan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 1:13 PM

    @Fran Ken: as I am dyslexic I do ok not worried what you think but to my 80 odd likes to your 0 likes on both your comments win win for me and please don’t comment back I don’t answer fools and me being the bigger fool to answer you in the first place.And I never mentioned any minority of people so your immigrant rant could be seen as slightly a racist comment toward .e be very carful when reading as you say bad grammer

    1
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    Mute Fran Ken
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    Apr 4th 2025, 2:06 PM

    @giles wolohan: Saying immigrants are smarter than Irish is racist? Maybe it is, but not to immigrants. As for the 0 votes, I think I hit a nerve. Truth hurts.

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    Mute giles wolohan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 2:29 PM

    @Fran Ken: are you still awake

    1
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    Mute jn
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    Apr 4th 2025, 5:11 AM

    TDs need to be contacted about billions spent on ipas centers and going money overseas and tell them it must stop now ,our kids been made second class citizens in their own country , it’s a money racket ipas center for TDs and their cronies who get to own them and not be named!!! fffg traitors

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    Mute sakk sa
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    Apr 4th 2025, 12:14 AM

    I blame the new 20% tariff for every next crisis/faluire!”

    67
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    Mute Oh Mammy
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    Apr 4th 2025, 12:38 AM

    @sakk sa: i blame our government

    80
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    Mute Thomas Meaney
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:39 AM

    @sakk sa: it’s obvious who to blame. Cost of EVERYTHING gone out through the roof and the Dept. hasn’t kept pace allocating funding. Schools doing fundraisers and asking for parents to donate – in a first world “apparently rich” country. Go figure!!!

    51
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    Mute Vinny Hughes
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:35 AM

    Sure the hundreds of millions wasted daily by our Government, OPW and others would sort this in a blink.

    54
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    Mute Brian Hunt
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    Apr 4th 2025, 1:22 AM

    And these are the good times, wait ’til the economic storm hits!

    54
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    Mute Thesaltyurchin
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    Apr 4th 2025, 8:17 AM

    Everything has always been underfunded. History of poverty had us believing it’s good honest ‘character building’ stuff. lol.

    34
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    Mute Del Ray
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    Apr 4th 2025, 5:54 AM

    A non-story. 34 schools out of many thousands got their books wrong. Could be many reason, many genuine. There’s a fund and system in place to help. Lets call it a 540% increase and activate the wrath and keyboard warriors of the far-left.

    19
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    Mute Thesaltyurchin
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:30 AM

    @Del Ray: AJ Products in the Ad channel… beautifully played algorithm! Our opinions and ego are more of a reason for outrage than all the supposed causes put together. I wonder if we’re some kind of galaxy wide psychological experiment.

    4
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    Mute Ed Brennan
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:03 AM

    It’ll be grand, if the (majority) Christian kids just keep eating the halal food, blessed by an imam and offered to ‘allan’, that (minority) muslim kids ‘must’ eat, and that no Christian parent was consulted about.

    9
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    Mute Thesaltyurchin
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:22 AM

    @Ed Brennan: A holy war! lol

    2
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    Mute miss lojo
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    Apr 4th 2025, 10:59 AM

    If any of the school are catholic schools with a catholic ethos and prayers at morning and lunch and end of day and gender separation and prepare for communion in all of 3rd class and confirmation in all of 6th class and do religion using the catholic religion curriculum and have a parish associated to raise money and a priest sitting on the board why is there no financial support from the church. Just calling a spade a spade here. They are look for it both ways. All children should have equal access to education without discrimination in clean and healthy environments by non bias teachers in a open accepting school environment. From experience this is not reality. If a catholic school has other means why drain the coffers, go ask daddy for some money see how far he will support you.

    3
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    Mute barry lyons
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    Apr 4th 2025, 11:06 AM

    Apple tax is well gone

    Ireland’s national debt one of the highest in the world at €42,000 per person
    By 2030, the Irish state will need an additional €8b a year relative to just before the pandemic to maintain current service levels across areas like healthcare and pensions.
    1.24pm, 21 Feb 2024
    34.4k
    144
    IRELAND HAS ONE of the highest gross public debt levels in the world according to figures released by the Department of Finance today, at just over €42,000 per person.

    At the end of last year public debt in Ireland is estimated at €223b, down from €236b at the end of 2021 but around €20b higher than just before the pandemic.

    1
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