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3 more off-the-beaten-track places you really should visit

As part of the Hidden Ireland series, Neil Jackman suggests three (free) heritage sites to visit in Waterford, Cork and Kildare.

I FINALLY MANAGED to get down to see some sites around Munster again over the Easter break, visiting some incredible places in Waterford and North and East Cork. Still so much more to see though and I am planning on paying another visit to Cork, Kerry, Limerick and Clare in the very near future. Apologies for shamefully not including any sites in Ulster yet, I do intend to visit some soon so please bear with me!

Here’s some more great heritage sites to visit, and all free of charge:

1. The Towers, Ballysaggartmore (near Lismore), Waterford

The ‘Towers’ is one of the best examples of a nineteenth century folly existing today in Ireland. The Towers were commissioned by Arthur Kiely-Ussher in around 1835. He had inherited over 8,000 acres of land in the area, and quickly gained a reputation for being a harsh and cruel landlord. It is said that his wife had become deeply envious of Strancally Castle, built by Arthur’s brother John Kiely, and hectored Arthur to build a residence to outshine that of his brother. Plans for an extravagant mansion were drawn and work began on the long and winding carriageway, with an ornate gate lodge. They then constructed an elaborate bridge over a small stream, with large towers flanking each side of the bridge.

However their grandiose ambitions quickly outstripped their funds and they ran out of money soon after completing the bridge. Their dreams of building a huge mansion were never to come true –  they spent their days living in the now demolished Ballysaggartmore House, and must have felt despair as they travelled along their stunning carriageway, that it would never lead to the mansion they had so desired. However it is hard to feel too much sympathy for the Kiely-Usshers. Arthur was reputed to have been a cruel and avaricious landlord during the Great Famine, evicting large numbers of tenants who could not pay their rents. He demolished their homes and replaced them with livestock who could bring in a better revenue.

Despite its unjust and sad history, today the site is a wonderful place to walk. It has a real fantasy feeling, walking along the quiet wooded paths and when you finally encounter the Towers, they are like something from the HBO programme Game of Thrones!

The site is pretty easy to find: take the R666 from Lismore heading towards Fermoy (signposted left after the bridge past Lismore Castle). You’ll find the Towers after about 3–4km well signposted on the right hand side. A fairly large carpark and a number of interpretative panels are on the site, I recommend when you arrive to follow the path up the slope to the right and loop around to the Towers that way, first entering by the Gate Lodge.

There are a number of other sites nearby, and Lismore town itself is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon with plenty of great cafes to stop and refuel as well as a number of heritage sites.

2. Bridgetown Priory, Cork

Bridgetown Priory is a beautifully preserved medieval priory positioned on the western bank of the River Blackwater in Cork. The Priory was founded in the early thirteenth century by Alexander FitzHugh, the Norman Lord of Castletownroache. He gave the site to the Augustinian order. The Augustinians had started to flourish in Ireland after the Anglo-Norman invasions that began in 1169, and as well as the establishment of Bridgetown Priory the area suddenly sprouted more priories, friaries, abbeys and nunneries nearby in Buttevant, Fermoy, Ballybeg, Glanworth and Castlelyons. Bridgetown Priory itself was a wealthy and prosperous site for the first century after it was established. In the Papal Taxation of 1306 the value of Bridgetown was reckoned at the hefty sum of £40.

A number of the structures that make up Bridgetown Priory have survived in excellent condition, making it a fantastic site to explore. The early thirteenth century church is in good condition and contains an internal wall that separates the nave (where the general congregation sat during mass) from the choir (reserved for the monks and clergy). There are signs of later medieval developments and modifications at the church, with a large two-storey residential tower added.

As you pass through the church you encounter a number of medieval buildings and features such as a sixteenth century chapel, a well-preserved thirteenth century graveslab, the calefactory (or warming house; apart from the kitchen, the calefactory was the only other building in the Priory allowed to have a fire), the priors’ domestic quarters, a room thought to be the kitchens, a large refectory where the priors met for large communal meals and a vaulted passageway that leads to the cloister. The remains are extensive and you can easily find hours slip by at this wonderfully peaceful spot. I highly recommend a visit; it has a similar feel and atmosphere to the extensive Kells Priory in Kilkenny.

Bridgetown Priory is located about 12km west of Fermoy off the N72. About 2km south of Castletownroache take a minor road to the west at Kilcummer. Then take the road to the south and after half a kilometre, the site is well signposted.

3. Castledermot Round Tower and High Crosses, Kildare

Originally this site was a hermitage founded by St. Diarmaid in 812 AD. Unlike the more usual isolated hermitages like Skellig Michael in Kerry, St. Diarmaid’s positioning of his hermitage at Castledermot is an unusual one. This area was well populated at the time, being located in the rich fertile landscape of the Barrow Valley. So why build a hermitage that wasn’t isolated like most were? Diarmaid was a key figure in the new monastic Céile Dé or Culdee movement; rather than solitary hermits, they wanted their pious, ascetic and abstemious life to be witnessed by the general population so that people might begin to reflect on their materialistic ways.

From small beginnings his hermitage grew into a monastic settlement known as Diseart Diarmada. It was twice raided by the Vikings in 841 and 867 AD, and the annals report it being the scene of violence and raids throughout the eleventh century as various Irish rulers vied for power in this region.

This site is a must-see for any fans of history, archaeology and those who love to explore old graveyards. A number of outstanding features make it one of the most rewarding places to visit in the region. The two high crosses are some of the finest examples of their type. Carved from granite and dating to around the 9th Century, the South Cross is unusual in having biblical scenes on its western face and geometric designs on the eastern side. The North Cross features a number of biblical depictions. As well as being striking markers of Christianity on the landscape, High Crosses were also a method of telling the stories of the bible visually to the largely illiterate population at the time. The Round Tower at the site is quite a small example, standing at only 20 metres high. The masonry of the tower is constructed of rough uncoursed granite.

One of the more unusual features at Castledermot can be found just in front of the South Cross. This is known as a ‘hogback’ grave (see photo above), and is the only hogback grave in Ireland. This type of burial marker is generally more commonly found in areas like Northumberland. It is associated with the Vikings, particularly around the time of transition between traditional Viking paganism and Christianity between 800–1000 AD. That this typically Viking grave marker is here at Castledermot is something of an enigma; the Vikings wouldn’t have been overly popular here as Castledermot was twice raided by the Vikings in 841 and 867 AD. Perhaps the grave marks the burial place of a wealthy Viking trader, a Hiberno–Norse Lord or noble, or even perhaps an Irish noble who was enamoured with the Viking culture. The grave itself is interesting in that it has typical Norse carvings on it (very difficult to make out today unfortunately, but if you look carefully you can just see faint outlines of large diamond shapes under the white lichen).  Some of these designs have their roots in Norse paganism, but it is buried in a Christian burial ground. Whoever was buried here was certainly hedging their bets for the afterlife!

The site is very easy to find, just head into Castledermot in south County Kildare and it is signposted. The site is in the grounds of St. James’s Church of Ireland.

  • You can discover more great sites off the beaten track on Neil’s blog, Time Travel Ireland. And if you’d like to see daily updates of information and images about great historical sites to visit in Ireland you can find us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/AudioGuides or on Twitter at @AbartaGuides
  • Neil Jackman has also produced an acclaimed series of audioguides to Ireland’s heritage sites, which are packed with original music and sound effects and are a really fun and immersive way of exploring Ireland’s past. they cost just €1.99 each and are available from abartaheritage.ie

All photographs © Neil Jackman/abartaheritage.ie

Read: 5 off-the-beaten-track places in Ireland you really should visit >

Read: Here’s what posh Irish toilets looked like 700 years ago >

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26 Comments
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    Mute Ken Donegan
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    Apr 24th 2013, 10:38 AM

    How about removing religion from having any involvement in schools.

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    Mute Caoimhe Clery
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    Apr 24th 2013, 11:06 AM

    I suspect that maybe Thats part of the idea behind this.

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    Mute Carl Douglas
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    Apr 24th 2013, 10:48 AM

    What’s the big problem with preferential treatment for siblings?

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    Mute Maria
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    Apr 24th 2013, 10:59 AM

    There’s no problem with siblings of current pupils – that just makes practical sense when it comes to drop offs and pick ups. However, there are a few issues with preferential treatment of siblings of past pupils – for example it puts children who have recently moved to an area at a big disadvantage when it comes to getting the school of their choice.

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    Mute Claire Daly
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    Apr 24th 2013, 10:31 AM

    I don’t think this will work.

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    Mute Tom Mulligan
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    Apr 24th 2013, 10:48 AM

    How about building schools in the area they extend houses in. Building a load of new homes in an existing area and not putting in new schools is just daft. putting in CAO style process is not going to solve the problem.
    short term answer to a long term problem.

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    Mute Dearbhla
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    Apr 24th 2013, 11:01 AM

    This article has really exasperated me! What the article fails to refer to re: the CAO is the points system. Are we going to ask 11 and 12 year old kids to compete for further education the way we ask 17 and 18 year olds? I realise the need for a fairer admissions system but lets keep the needs and welfare of the children as priority number one! The proposed system begs the question- what are our goals for our education system and facilities because if the kids have to qualify by showing they have certain skills which they are going to school to acquire then it seems we have lost the plot a bit! Anonomous addmissions by all means, competition for places among very young kids NO. Give them a chance to acquire the knowlegde and skills before firing that particular experience at them.

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    Mute Brian Corcoran
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    Apr 24th 2013, 11:33 AM

    Hi Dearbhla,
    I think the thrust of the idea is more so to base a system, similar to the CAO in terms of matching preferences for schools, on supply and demand of places rather than on the need for children to compete for those places based on terms of ability. The idea then being to give preference to those who specified a school as their first choice over those who may have listed that same school as a lower choice, in the event of a shortage of spaces to meet the demand.

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    Mute Lisa Reilly
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    Apr 24th 2013, 10:56 AM

    “…prohibiting policies where schools can choose to prioritise the children or siblings of past pupils, or operate a ‘first come, first served’ model.”

    “… allowances for families who have always lived in one school’s catchment area, but who may now find themselves muscled out if new homes have been built closer to that school, so that those families are not pushed out of their traditional school.”

    So if you’re living in the same area for a number of years you probably will get priority, so the past pupil thing will kind of remain. This all doesn’t seem too clear at all at all.

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    Mute Veruca Salt
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    Apr 24th 2013, 11:18 AM

    I welcome Quinn’s willingness to try to redress the imbalance in the system. I wouldn’t be his greatest fan by any means. But, at least he’s trying.

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    Mute Ing-Marie Shore
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    Apr 24th 2013, 11:58 AM

    In Sweden you get a form sent out when your child is due to start school. You get to list 3 preferences and places are allocated from a central system according to preferences and availability of spaces. Works well I found. Seems quite similar to this idea but I do think preference should be given to children living in the local area. We had a situation a couple of years ago when our son couldn’t get into a local secondary school here in Ireland as he didn’t have a parent a past pupil. He would have had to travel to a different town whilst in the local schools children living an hour away were getting in as their fathers had attended previously. Luckily one school decided to increase their intake that year and he got in, but it wasn’t until May the year he was due to start that he got a place. Very stressful.

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    Mute Angela Coll
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    Apr 24th 2013, 1:21 PM

    Different kids chose schools for different reasons
    Not all siblings would want to be in the same school as their older brother or sister but if they DO want to that should be given priority
    My eldest daughter chose her new secondary based on the subjects available, the same range of subjects are not available in the school where most of her friends are going in September
    The fact that she is now going to attend the school that I attended in my teens is coincidental but she would have been gutted if she had not received a place so i am delighted that being the daughter of a past pupil gave her an edge
    Had I a son (Which i dont) that had the potential to be the next Henry Shefflin though, I would imagine he would want to attend St. Flannan’s college (home of hurling in Ennis). I would move to the other side of the town (over beside Flannans) if i needed to do so. Parents will always find a way to get themselves up the lists in schools where there is high demand
    Ennis, has 5 secondary schools that i can think of
    Only one is single sex, the rest are mixed and most have historically had feeder schools is this going to be abolished under this new system? I.E. Kids who attend a certain primary school generally follow into the associated second level
    I do think that the admissions policy should be based on
    1) Siblings of current pupils (for convenience for parents)
    2) Children of teachers (for convenience of teachers Who are people too)
    3) Siblings of past pupils (hand me down uniforms anyone?)
    4) Proximity within a small town is one thing but in the country side kids having to drive past one school to get to another because they weren’t accepted into the first is simply silly

    I would like to see
    5) Children of past pupils (my parents payed for many of the facilities my old school now uses like the concert hall and the sports hall should my children not benefit from them too)

    I know and understand that current economics dictate where parents have to live (i.e. where there is work) and I know how lucky I am to be still living in my home town

    BUT i dont see why, if there is a school in town where generations of the same family have attended since the days of Adam, that the youngest kids of that family should be denied their place simply because it is not fashionable to allow family ties to give preference to places anymore

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    Mute karla carroll
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    Apr 24th 2013, 2:31 PM

    Totally agree Angela …

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    Mute Seán Grennan
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    Apr 24th 2013, 11:35 AM

    Yeah I think the biggest problem with this would have to be the complications involved in shuttling students from their homes to the schools. It’s fair enough for a university student to have to do so but it would be unfair to make thousands of young teenagers travel out of their local area, where there’s probably a local school. I think an easier solution would be to stream classes within the schools more effectively than is being done at the moment.

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    Mute Paul Ward
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    Apr 25th 2013, 2:11 PM

    How would students be picked then, I’m sorry you Lego skills are not up to scratch you can’t go to school here, … Typical idiotic Irish idea

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